Setting up a community of killifish can be quite tricky. Most will be hell bent on killing each other even if they are smaller and weaker than the other fish. I've even seen a 4cm Nothobranchius take on a 20cm Goby. Avoid the annuals if you want to mix with other fish including killis.
The first thing you will need to do is set up a tank to suit. You don't mention what size tank so i will base this on a 60L tank.
You will need a tight fitting lid since killis are jumpers and will get out of the smallest spaces. Tape over any gaps in the hood.
The light need to be low for them to be comfortable and show there best colours. 11-18 watts would be fine.
The substrate should be dark. I use black. Again this will show them at there best. I also black out the sides and the back of the tank.
A plain empty tank wont work if you want to mix killis so plenty of plants and bog wood. You will need to break the line of sight and give them plenty of hiding places. Even some very small caves will be used for hiding in.
Java moss, Anubias, java fern, and Vallis all work well for me in low light with a floating plant on the surface. Try get some of the plants to reach the surface. When killis are resting it is normally on the bottom or the surface. If the come across each other at the surface trouble may erupt.
Note; if i don't have bottom dwellers in the tank i don't syphon the substrate. After a year or two the bottom will be covered in mulm which adds to the natural look of the tank.
For filtration i use sponge filters. Air driven box filters will work just as well. Power filter may cause to much flow and make the fish uneasy. Although i have noticed some Aphy. gardneri appreciate some flow.
Try set the tank up some where that it will get some natural sun light. You get the best colours shown from early morning sun.
A pH of 6 - 7.5 gH 2 - 10 and temp. 22 - 24 C. Don't be tempted to increase the temp. IMO they will fade in colour and can become aggressive.
Although you might read about adding salt for killis i find it unnecessary. The only time salt seems necessary is when the fish show signs of old age. They tend to get fungus on the bottom of the mouth.
Now to the fish. All the fish i mention here i have mixed together at some stage or another but not all at the same time so it may be a bit of trial and error for you but i will explain what to watch out for so you know if you need to remove a fish.
Killis will challenge each other by flairing up with fins fully extended and gill plates pushed forward making their heads look bigger. They will also shimmy beside each other flicking each other with their tails. This is all harmless and the worst you may experience is some fin extensions removed.
If they start to go at each other head to tail or biting the sides you may have to make a judgement call and remove one. Do you remove the one doing the damage? Well he might just go and attack another fish. Do you remove the weaker possibly damaged fish? Any open wounds could get infected. You would have to decide if this problem ever arises.
There is another problem that could arise since you only want males in the tank. Killis like humans have a natural urge to reproduce. Without a female to breed with they seem to get sexually frustrated. This frustration is taken out on tank mates.
Without females they don't always show their best colours. They need someone to show off to. But if you add females they will hybridize. If you do add females DO NOT pass on the young to anyone. The last thing we need in the hobby is more hybrids.
The fish list;
2 epiplatys dageti or 2 epiplatys grahmi or 1 Aplocheilus lineatus
4 Aphyosemion striatum
2-3 Aphyosemion bivittatum or 2-3 Aphy. volcanum
A pair of pseudepiplatys annulatus. I know you only want males but i never had any luck keeping only males of these. The few young that are produced wont last in this tank.
A pair of Oryzias latipes ( gold medaka/ golden rice fish). A plain coloured killi. You need a pair of these to witness the females display to attract a male. truly amazing and unique.
A group of about 8 Aplocheilichthys Normani (lampeye killifish). These will distract the other killis and prevent some fighting. They also need clean water so keep up the 10% weekly water changes.
this combination should work well but there is even more to consider. There diet in the wild would consist of insects or insect larva. If they are not fed some live food they lose some of that spark in character and colour. Even if you feed live food twice a week will do. High protein food is a must to get the best out of them.
Hope this helps, Darren
Here is a picture of one of my killi tanks. You wouldn't think there was about 20 Aphyosemion bivittatum in here. very camera shy.
