Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)
Hi,
John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.
I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.
With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.
I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.
If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.
I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.
I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.
Thank you
Darragh Sherwin
Build Plans - Advice will be needed -NOW INSTALLED
- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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im looking at removing as much as possible form the tank.
Plan is to be tropical and 1650mm x 500mm x 500mm
here is a quick drawing a did using a 1mm gap between the sheets for adhesive.
so next step is add some euro bracing.
ill do that now 80mm sould be fine.
but i want to place a Bean Animal Overflow. Ill try add that in but need to figure out how to fit it in.
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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euro brace on the front is 80mm
I currently have this as 10mm glass but may change if the cost is to high.
So one question, i'm using 2 x 3/4 inch pvc tubing to insert the water back in, if the inner tubing is 3/4 inch, how big should the holes be in the glass?
Steve
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- Ski (Alan McGee)
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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- LemonJelly (Johnny Cowley)
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"The only thing that burns in Hell is the part of you that won't let go of your life; your memories, your attachments. They burn them all away. But they're not punishing you.They're freeing your soul."
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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(1 inch bulkhead)
www.amazon.co.uk/Lifegard-Aquatics-ARP27...eaded/dp/B0002DKAU0/
then 1 of these for the emergency overflow
(1.5 inch bulkhead)
www.amazon.co.uk/Lifegard-Aquatics-ARP17...ndard/dp/B0002HBL9A/
and 2 of these for the return to tank,
(3/4 inch bulkhead)
www.amazon.co.uk/Lifegard-Aquatics-ARP27...hread/dp/B001EUG9PU/
total cost : ~ €45
with 5 hole's required.
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- JohnH (John)
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They relate more to Marine tank building but there could be a few pointers there to help you out.
John
www.irishfishkeepers.com/index.php/artic...bystep-tank-building
www.irishfishkeepers.com/index.php/artic...ess-calculator-chart
www.irishfishkeepers.com/index.php/artic...ding-a-reef-aquarium
Location:
N. Tipp
We're just two lost souls swimming in a fish bowl - year after year.
ITFS member.
It's a long way to Tipperary.
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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I knew about the flow rates but seems you bring it up,
My tanks is approx 100gallons, so i need to be cycling about 500gph.
The gravity overflow using 1 inch pvc tubing is rated at 600gph
www.reefaquarium.com/2012/aquarium-plumbing-basics/
I plan on have 4 of these, 2 for the normal "Bean Animal" style drain and 2 for emergency overflow.
This give me a max 1200gph siphon, but take into account, bends kinks, etc, i'd say 1000gph is realistic.
I've also redesigned the over flow to be smaller and lighter, based on feedback from a friend the overflow may weight too much.
So here are the updated plans,
The redesign of the overflow (thinner and more adhesive contact.
The return socket is 3/4 inch so I've estimated adrill size of 25mm, this will change when i buy the bulkhead and measure it.
The 2 x 1 inch holes for the emergency siphon.
One of the 2 x 1 inch holes for the emergency siphon. (need to get the location for the second one yet)
and othe overview
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- bart (Bart Korfanty)
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Just few things i can think of
I have made good few tanks of the similar size and common practice nowadays is to put your bottom in between the sides. At the moment it looks like u have sides standing on the bottom pane which adds extra stress from the glass weight
With that size of main tank i would allow 2mm for the silicone
Remember to allow at least 1mm for silicone between the brace and front glass. Especially if u not putting the brace across to connect front and back. With that length u will have quite a bend on the glass so this joint have to allow for some movement. Otherwise the brace will crack. have seen that in few cases and made that mistake myself. Also for the same reasons i would leave some space between side panes and the brace.
Bart
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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but i wasn't expecting a bend on 10mm tempered glass with euro bracing. ?
Are you sure about that one?
On a side note I noticed that the bulkheads I listed above are threaded on the inside. Where can I get "abs bulkheas " and can anyone recommend a quite internal pump @ 1000gph?
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- bart (Bart Korfanty)
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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here is revison 2,
There is now a 2mm adhisive gap between the glass in the main tank and the euro brace.
I've also changed the tank so that the side panels go to the floor, not the base panel.
[img]http://www.stephen-walsh.com/misc_hosting_files/fish/overview Revsion2.jpg[/img]
I've revised the hole size for the 2 x 3/4 inch return bulkheads
[img]http://www.stephen-walsh.com/misc_hosting_files/fish/retrurn revision2.jpg[/img]
I've revised the hole size for the 2 x 1 inch emergency hole bulkheads
[img]http://www.stephen-walsh.com/misc_hosting_files/fish/emg siphon revision2.jpg[/img]
things left to do...
-> change overflow to 6mm glass
-> place in hole for second siphon
-> create sump with filter media, UVc light, Heater, airpump, auto feeder etc...
things left to find...
-> silent under water internal pump @ 1000gph
-> Place to buy non-threaded ABS Bulkheads in 1 inch and 3/4 inch
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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water will flow throw a Activated Carbon, then 3 layers of filers,and finally flow into the UVC champer.
There will be 2 x heater and 1 air pump in the sump also (not shown in blueprint)
[img]http://www.stephen-walsh.com/misc_hosting_files/fish/sump v1.jpg[/img]
There is also an over-flow in there that i plan on using to overflow into a drain.
(this will be a dip feed water cycle)
so over all this looks like the final change to revision 2.
Any comment/ sugestion.
Any does anyone know where i can buy parts (think i've asked this a few times

-> quiet one pump 5000+
-> slip bulkheads (1", 1/2", 3/4")
-> I have a local glass cutter here but not cheap - recommendation are welcome.
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- CrustyCrab (Peter Biddulph)
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Seahorse in Dublin should sort you out with the slip bulkheads.
I have a feeling that Quiet One pumps will be hard to find in Europe, other options are Eheim and Ocean Runner
Great Project. Looking forward to updates.
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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I emailed seahorse last week, no luck there for the bulkhead .

Looks like I'll have to get them from Amazon .Co.uk and buy a thread to slip adapter.
I'll pm you now for Keith number, is it his business or something he does on the side?
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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4 x 1"
2 x 3/4"
1 x 1/2"
4 x 3/4" duckbill return nozzel
With these i can get an exact mesurment of the holes required in the glass.
Should take about 2 weeks for delivery - had to order from the states. Came to about 40 euro for the 11 items.
Steve
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- Gonefishy (Brian oneill)
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Unbelievable Steve. Some of you guys are so knowledgeable it's scary...I've spent the last fortnight putting together a bought tank and transfer from an existing tank...couldn't even imagine where to start the project you've so amazingly described....can't wait to see it as you actually piece it together. Make sure to take and post lots of photos....best of luck with it. Brian.Ordered my 7 bulkheads,
4 x 1"
2 x 3/4"
1 x 1/2"
4 x 3/4" duckbill return nozzel
With these i can get an exact mesurment of the holes required in the glass.
Should take about 2 weeks for delivery - had to order from the states. Came to about 40 euro for the 11 items.
Steve
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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im fairly new to fish tanks myself (only been at it about 4 months )
Not that tricky once you have a few friends who have fish tanks and are open to giving advice.
Not to mention a fourm full of knowledgeable people.
The hard thing is to ask the right questions

My next update might not be for a while, while I wait on my bulkheads to arrive,
but I'm more than happy to answer any questions you may have.
Steve
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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Always worried that if i buy something from ikea then it will fail under the weight of the tank.
So i saw this and im goingto try make my own

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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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Will it support up to 200 stone?
Or when making a cabinet should i be putting in a steal frame?
Any one here build a cabinet for a 412+ liter tank.
Steve
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- bart (Bart Korfanty)
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I'm still concerned about the design of the whole tank.
I pointed out previously front pane bracing issues. Exactly the same physics apply to the rear pane. The rear will change shape when the tank is full and all the stress will be transferred to the overflow box. Especially to it's bottom pane, which by the way is weakened by drilled holes. 6mm glass will not be able to successfully counteract to the force applied.
Solutions
1 - Use at least 10mm thick glass for the bottom of the overflow box. this way u will add sort of external bracing to the rear pane. allow some space for silicone as well 1-2mm.
2 - Keep the overflow box as it is but add internal brace the way that it's top edge is at the edge of the intake recess. U can lower the front one to match up and join them in the middle across with extra bracing.
U are going to loose few cm of viewing area in front but this way your tank will be fully braced and safe. U could always make it few cm higher to compensate that loss.
3 - Do the full bracing on the tank, keep the overflow box in 6mm glass but instead of overflow recess drill small holes along the top of the back pane under the brace. Of course not to many and not to close together to retain as much of the glass integrity as possible. U would need to recalculate the water flow though.
Of course these are just my suggestions (although backed by experience of constructing quite a few of similar size bad boys) and u don't have to be obliged to follow them in any way.
Great blueprints by the way
Her's link to quiet pumps of good make (it's in polish though). These pumps are energy efficient and very quiet. Search the net for some other vendor. They made in Italy i think so im sure u can get them or ebay or amazon
allegro.pl/aquarium-systems-new-jet-3000...owa-i3251457928.html
Good luck
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- k.galvin (Kieran Galvin)
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www.garf.org/calculators/BuildLargeStand_3.asp
Nice plans by the way

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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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I've made some changes i hope this looks better to your expert eye now.
changes:
-> Added a second brace at the rear of the tank (80mmm width and 10mm tickness)
-> Added a brace to the overflow (6mm in tickness)
-> Removed the 2 small braces on the edge of the overflow
-> Shortened the overflow entry to 400mm, (the open area from rear brace to bottom is 20mm)
The surface area of the overflow gap is 80cm2
The surface area of twice the 2 1" holes is 76cm2, so this overflow entry is twice the area of the exit pipes into the sump.
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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excellent link k.galvin, thank you very mush
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- paulv (paul vickers)
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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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I was talking to seahourse but they didnt have the bulk heads i was looking for


I'm trying to avoid adding cross bracing - want to keep it as open as possible. but if i need to add it then i'll just have to add it

Just want to take a moment to thank pete from aqua paws for his insight and help yestereday (when i met him in his shop.) I'll be in touch for some parts

actually now that i think about i might be a van in a few weeks to pick a 6ft cabinet up from silgo to galway, anyone interested

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- Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
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My bulkheads arrived
4 x 1"
2 x 3/4"
1 x 1/2"
and some directional valves
I've also started reviewing the building process for building my own stand and shelfs,
I'll be using 20 2x4's for the base structure.
[img]http://www.stephen-walsh.com/misc_hosting_files/fish/stand V1.jpg[/img]
and i'm planning on getting everything i need out of 2 sheets of pine (2500mm x 1250mm)
[img]http://www.stephen-walsh.com/misc_hosting_files/fish/pine sheets.jpg[/img]
Seems im working with Imperial Piping mesurement, im ordering the rest of the pipe work from here
www.hendersons.co.uk
I'm just in talks with them at the mo about what i need to work with 1" hose piping
Great guys to work with, and my latest wiring diagram for the return pip work is as follows,
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