Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)
Hi,
John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.
I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.
With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.
I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.
If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.
I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.
I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.
Thank you
Darragh Sherwin
Ro water
- lucky_dresden (lucky_dresden)
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Do any shops sell RO water and if so how much would 25 litres cost.
I have hair algae due to a problem with phosphates in the tapwater and even Rowaphos ain't doing me any good.
The missus would go spare if I suggested getting a unit myself, besides the water pressure here is crap.
Thanks
Lucky
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- apistodiscus (apistodiscus)
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No big mess involved. Came with a tap connector and messy cutting of pipes and installing of valves etc.
My unit came from France but with English instructions. No worries about spares either. MWS is one of the market leaders.
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- Acara (Dave Walters)
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always on the lookout for interesting corys.pm me if you know off any!
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- lucky_dresden (lucky_dresden)
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I'll check that out.
Lucky
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- russell (russell)
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- lucky_dresden (lucky_dresden)
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Food is snapped up pretty quickly by the fish, none left after a minute or so and I don't think I'm overstocked.
Nitrate tests out at practically nil in the tank, about 20 from the tap, the plants must be snapping that up.
I think my tap water is high in phosphates. I use an API test kit. The colour turns out a very murky green, which of course is not one of the colours on the colour chart, but very far from the colour which signifies nil.
I reckon any water changes I do just keeps my phosphates topped up nicely, overwhelming the rowaphos.
If the ro water sorts it out, €2 a week won't be too expensive I think.
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- apistodiscus (apistodiscus)
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And just do the maths on 25l @ 2€ *26 weeks=52 €. My RO unit was cheaper. And I will not have to drag 25 litres around. Especially akward if you buy it in Dublin and have to haul the stuff to your car. And you save the money for the car park as well.
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- lucky_dresden (lucky_dresden)
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My fish are
4 colombian tetras
6 cardinals
5 neons
2 clown loaches,
2 otos
1 upside down catfish
3 zebra danios
5 serpae tetras (which don't harass my other fish, luckily enough)
I feed flake and catfish pellets, which disappear pretty quickly so I don't reckon I'm overfeeding. I also give a days break each week.
I'm up in Tallaght each weekend so the travel or parking isn't an issue. €2 a week is practically nothing.
Messing with plumbing, taking up more space under the sink or having water barrels collecting in the kitchen may end up in a severe de-bollocking however.
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- apistodiscus (apistodiscus)
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I would change more water. 25% a week or so. 10% isn't enough in my mind. Start off with this and see where you are going before you start dragging water around Dublin. Black beard algae are a pain in the backside and very hard to shift.
I would strip the tank and treat with bleach. Clean thorougly. Get rid of any stones and gravel you have in it and replace. If you have any plants in it where the alage has settled on , I'm afraid, they will have to go as well. No piss acting around with removing only the leaves that are effected. Bin the whole lot.
It's a day's work but well worth the effort.
When's the last time you replaced the bulbs? If they are too old their spectrum will shift and alagae just love this.
I think your phosphate test kit is either out of date or got contaminated somewhere along the way if it shows a colour that isn't even on the chart.
One last word about RO units. They do come with adapters you can simply screw onto on ouside outlet for a garden house. If you are living in an apartment you are of course still up sh*t creek without a paddle
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- serratus (Drew Latimer)
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- russell (russell)
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- KenS (Ken Simpson)
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I had a bad algae problem and did a lot of reading. From what I read, there is no definitive proof that high phosphates = algae. I'm not sure ths is your problem.
Regards,
Ken.
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- lucky_dresden (lucky_dresden)
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I was proposing getting 25 litres of ro water a week for €2 per week. I would imagine this would have to be diluted to some extent by normal tap water.
I am doing fairly hefty water changes at the moment, but the point I was making was that this just seems to be topping up my phosphates and nitrates, rather than removing pollutants.
I have two fairly new tubes and two brand spanking new tubes, and the ones they replaced weren't too old, less than a year. They're the bog standard tubes that come with the juwel light fitting. I have the extra light fitting in the top of the tank for a total of four t8 tubes.
I forgot to mention my swordtails who seem to be making stirling efforts to tear the algae off wherever it settles, but it's a losing battle as I would imagine I'd have to have a fair few to make any difference.
Anyway, thanks for the input. Food for thought and all that.
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- apistodiscus (apistodiscus)
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What kind of plants if any do you have in the tank? If you don't have any plants in the tank 2 bulbs would be more than enough for your tank.
If you do have plants your tank probably would benefit from a CO2 unit. No need to buy one you can make your own at very little cost.
You should aim between 20-30mg/l of CO2 for optimum plant growth. Initially go for some fast growing stem plants. A floating plant like salvinia will also mop up any surplus nutrients. I can send you some slavinia. You can pm me your address and I'll mail it up to you.
Holger
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- russell (russell)
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10% a week it should be at least double that. A daily water change is more beneficial than a large one weekly. as for phosphates in your tap water I can't see the ammount you are talking about being possible. no one is slagging you only trying to help. The main cause of phosphate buit up is as stated, frozen food contains a lot of Nutrients, strain first & rise. over feeding, not frequent enough water changes and to much lighting. what about plant fertiliser are you adding these? all these contribute to ideal conditions for Algea build up.
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- lucky_dresden (lucky_dresden)
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I have a fair amount of vallis in the tank which is spreading all over the place. I'll have to re-arrange soon and the taller plants are spreading forward to the front. I have some others I don't have the name of which are fast growing and I regularly pull lumps of it out. I also have some elodea which grows away.
I've stopped fertilizing for the last couple of weeks which doesn't seem to have done the plants any harm. I've got tetra eco something or other substrate with a heating cable.
I also vacuum the gravel when I'm syphoning out my more that 25l per week I currently change (I'm not giving ground on that one)
I have a co2 unit which I'm going to put in.
I'll try and get a couple of pics up this evening.
Thanks for the offer of the plants Holger, I'll pm you.
I may do a diary to show how it's coming along, you never know.
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- tanks_alot (Denis Coghlan)
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Lead me not into temptation, For I can find it myself!
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- lucky_dresden (lucky_dresden)
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s156.photobucket.com/albums/t35/lucky_dresden/
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- apistodiscus (apistodiscus)
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Salvinia went into the post this morning.
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- lucky_dresden (lucky_dresden)
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I have some more bogwwod at the back which is also covered. I regularly trim off excessively covered leaves as well.
I'll try and get some close ups.
Thanks
Pat
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- apistodiscus (apistodiscus)
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are we talking about black (actually a very dark green) hair algae? They are a bitch to get rid of. CO2 definitely helps. Frequent big water changes are a must. You could also get an inline UV sterilizer that will kill the spores. Expensive though. The RO unit would be cheaper.
To convince your wife/girlfriend that the cost are not too excessive just ask them how much their last handbag or pair of shoes were and how long they will last or be in fashion.Works for me every time. Handbag 150€, in vogue for max 1 year after which a new one needs to be purchased= 3 discus lasting for 10+years each. You can't breed handbags either and make money back on them either...I can't see how anybody can fail to follow this logic.
You can't bleach bogwood. You could use hydrogen peroxide but I'd just dunk the bogwood into boiling water.
Holger
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- lucky_dresden (lucky_dresden)
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I'm considering chucking my gravel as it's quite large. Not sure whether to replace it with sand or just smaller gravel.
Sand looks well but I'm not sure about cleaning it. In the tank I mean. Does the poo just sit on top waiting to be syphoned?
Might get rid of the bogwood as well, can't really see it at the moment and it just seems to accumulate huge amounts of crap underneath it.
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- apistodiscus (apistodiscus)
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If you chose to re-do your tank, place the bogwood into the bottom of the tank first and then fill in your gravel. This way nothing can accumulate underneath the wood.
While sand looks nice it's not the ideal substrate for plants. It's possible to grow plants in sand but why bother if you don't need to?
Best way to get nutrients to the roots is to put a heater cable into the tank. this will allow a certain flow of water through the substrate and transport nutrients to the roots.
Sand also needs a bit mor maintenace. Faeces and food will collect on the surface and need to be syphoned out not to ruin the overall look of your tank
Holger
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