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Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)

Hi,

John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.

I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.

With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.

I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.

If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.

I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.

I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.

Thank you
Darragh Sherwin

Re: Lighting unit on a juwel tank

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27 Jan 2012 23:24 #1 by jeff (Jeff Scully)
Hi guys

I bought a new juwel 240 about 6mts ago and was told by a friend that the light units give trouble,
that water can get in very easily and it is then fooked
so they need to be DIY sealed with tank reseal silicone around the 4 fittings (if yea no were i mean 2 at each end)
now their is a seal around them kinda like a washer thing looks safe to me but yea no urself dont want to hear the owl 'i told yea

any input would be great

thanks in advance lads

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27 Jan 2012 23:30 #2 by stretnik (stretnik)
Replied by stretnik (stretnik) on topic Re: Lighting unit on a juwel tank
Hey Jeff,

I found that, in my case anyway, the Tubes are to blame or should I say, the metal Cups at both ends are, I found that, after a while, they loosen from the Glass, my advice would be to put something like an Epoxy Glue around the area where Glass and Metal ends come together , I did this and resolved an on-going horror with these Lights. (Not sure on which type of glue/solvent/Silicone is best)

Kev.

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28 Jan 2012 00:05 #3 by wylam (Stuart Sexton)
If the cups loosen then the gas (probably argon or similar) will escape and the light will blow. Is it possible to source different bulb's for the tank or even put in a completely different lighting system like led's or something? just a suggestion.

Stuart.

Multi tasking: Screwing up more than one thing at a time.

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28 Jan 2012 00:26 #4 by jeff (Jeff Scully)
sorry lads i dont follow :unsure:

this is the bit im on about

where white meets black

somehow the water is supposed to get in and wreck the main unit (forget what the part is called) but,
if it go's i was told that i will have to replace the hole lighting unit around the 200yoyos mark (dont want that at all) :-((

Where the tongue slips, it speaks the truth.

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28 Jan 2012 00:36 #5 by BillG (Bill Gray)
Hi Jeff,

its actually on the light bulbs / tubes themselves. The metal endcaps can come loose. The lights start to flicker and act up. It can in turn cause damage to the ballast.

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28 Jan 2012 00:38 - 28 Jan 2012 00:38 #6 by stretnik (stretnik)
Replied by stretnik (stretnik) on topic Re: Lighting unit on a juwel tank
Some guys DID report condensation on the inside of the Black housing that you are referring to but that isn't always the case, my problem was the cups at the ends of the Tubes, I glued these tight and the problem went away. There is always a chance that the thermo sealed ballast housing, the Black Box, isn't totally water tight and it would no harm to put Aquarium Silicone around the area just to be sure. These units require both Bulbs to be working in order for both to be working afaik so one faulty one will render the other one unusable till the other is replaced.

Kev.
Last edit: 28 Jan 2012 00:38 by stretnik (stretnik).

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28 Jan 2012 01:13 #7 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
lads i had this prob my self first i tot it was the bulbs cause they where like as kev said one off the end caps was lose on it but tested new bulbs and still no joy so i cut out the ballast and changes it and the sealed with tex7 then put the old bulbs back in and worked a treat even tho the end was lose (i could have being lucky)

@kev i always tot the same as where if one is gone the other will not work

till i came home tonight and one is not workin but the other is?

maybe it could have being the new ballast i put in not a (juwel one)

but jeff if it happen dont go buyin a new unit im a sparks so changing a ballast was handy ebough but have to say if i wasnt i think i wouldnt have being able to do it but ya knoe know

if it happenings u let me know and ill change it for u free off charge the ballast are only about 20euro

sean

Sean Crowe

ITFS Member

Location: Navan

Always Remember Surviving Is Not Thriving

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28 Jan 2012 01:19 - 28 Jan 2012 01:20 #8 by jeff (Jeff Scully)
@ bill and kev thanks

ballast housing thats the 1, black box is easier to remember il go with that for now

so im going to seal that just to be safe, but whats the story with sealing around the cups how will i replace the bulbs when needed

Where the tongue slips, it speaks the truth.

A life making mistakes is not only more honourable, but more useful than a life spent doing nothing at all.
Last edit: 28 Jan 2012 01:20 by jeff (Jeff Scully).

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28 Jan 2012 01:26 #9 by BillG (Bill Gray)
Hi Jeff,

dont seal the screw on caps, they can be replaced quite cheaply if the rubber seal is loose on them, some of the better LFS will stock them as spare parts. The seal with silicone or epoxy should be placed in a band around the join between the tube and the metal end cap, so where the electrical contacts meet the glass. Not sure if I am making sense, if not let me know and I can post pic showing where I mean.

Cheers,

Bill.

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28 Jan 2012 01:29 #10 by jeff (Jeff Scully)
sorry sean i was writing when you put up your post im very slow at the typing haha

thanks very much i wont worry about it now top man fair play to yeah true dub

Where the tongue slips, it speaks the truth.

A life making mistakes is not only more honourable, but more useful than a life spent doing nothing at all.

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28 Jan 2012 01:35 - 28 Jan 2012 01:38 #11 by jeff (Jeff Scully)

Hi Jeff,

dont seal the screw on caps, they can be replaced quite cheaply if the rubber seal is loose on them, some of the better LFS will stock them as spare parts. The seal with silicone or epoxy should be placed in a band around the join between the tube and the metal end cap, so where the electrical contacts meet the glass. Not sure if I am making sense, if not let me know and I can post pic showing where I mean.

Cheers,

Bill.



sorry mate im lost friday night does not help if yea no what i mean, burp

think i know where ur on about is it when your looking at the light straight on and the last bit of glass meets the white plastic screw on cap, do yea fill in around that, stop the water going into the bulb

Where the tongue slips, it speaks the truth.

A life making mistakes is not only more honourable, but more useful than a life spent doing nothing at all.
Last edit: 28 Jan 2012 01:38 by jeff (Jeff Scully).

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28 Jan 2012 01:39 #12 by BillG (Bill Gray)
No problem, enjoy the beers :) I will post a pic tomorrow

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28 Jan 2012 01:51 #13 by jeff (Jeff Scully)

No problem, enjoy the beers :) I will post a pic tomorrow


cheers mate
sh1t is that that time zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

so additive, the fish that is :laugh:

Where the tongue slips, it speaks the truth.

A life making mistakes is not only more honourable, but more useful than a life spent doing nothing at all.

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28 Jan 2012 14:53 #14 by BillG (Bill Gray)
Hi Jeff,

referring to the pic attached, the seal that fails on the tubes is where the metal endcap meets the glass. The endcap is held in place with a thermoset glue but it often fails on these tubes and leads to problems. So a thin film of silicone or opoxy around that stops the problem. Hope this helps :)
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28 Jan 2012 17:49 #15 by jeff (Jeff Scully)
Bill thats perfect thanks very much it makes sense now and the pic is cool thanks for taking the time to do that for me

black box and bulb getting sealed 2moro

thanks lads

Where the tongue slips, it speaks the truth.

A life making mistakes is not only more honourable, but more useful than a life spent doing nothing at all.

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17 Feb 2012 01:15 #16 by jeff (Jeff Scully)
@BillG or anyone

Hi only got around to doing my sealing tonight as we know the silicone is messy stuff their is silicone on the bulb it self like a couple of mill,, is this ok, i will leave it dry for 48hrs before putting the unit back on the tank and turning it on. Will the heat melt of soften the silicone that will then fall off and into the tank??

Where the tongue slips, it speaks the truth.

A life making mistakes is not only more honourable, but more useful than a life spent doing nothing at all.

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17 Feb 2012 19:29 #17 by wylam (Stuart Sexton)
Jeff once the silicone is dry it can be pulled or rubbed off with your finger.I'd remove it before you replace the bulbs , just in case.

Stuart.

Multi tasking: Screwing up more than one thing at a time.

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