Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)
Hi,
John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.
I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.
With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.
I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.
If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.
I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.
I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.
Thank you
Darragh Sherwin
starting off with tropical fish.
- KenS (Ken Simpson)
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How do the other fish look?
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Ken.
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- Processor (Niall O'Leary)
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Fair play to you Peter now that's one clever idea.Chop the tetra test strips in half, now its 50c per test.
The readings are exactly the same.
Processor.
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- bradan (bradan)
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i had changed 20% of water last night and when i got up this morning one fish dead the rest look ok.
i am doing now a 50% change as the readings have changed a fair bit.
ammonia now showing 0.
nitrites up to 0.5 PPM , which aint good. so doing 50% water change.
this must mean that the first part of the cycling is established, ie the bacteria converting ammonia to nitrites....
just waiting now on the other bacteria to convert the nitrites to nitRATES.
is 50% enough to change?
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- KenS (Ken Simpson)
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Ken.
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- bradan (bradan)
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- KenS (Ken Simpson)
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I wouldn't worry about it not coming down after 3 weeks. I could take another week or so to go to zero.
I presume you mean .25 to .50?
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Ken.
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- bradan (bradan)
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- KenS (Ken Simpson)
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its a right pain in the ass changing the water daily.
It is, but it will be worth it when you're fully cycled and have a tank full of healthy fish.
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Ken.
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- bradan (bradan)
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while trying to remove him, i mushed him, and he fell down the side of the filter, he was a small neon tetra.
anyways i couldnt easily get him out, as he was at the bottom of the filter
so had to leave him there...
did a 50% water change.
will this dead fish poison the water? will it cause major problems?
cheers
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- KenS (Ken Simpson)
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It may be best to take out the filter and wash it out in tank water at your next water change. Please ensure you use tank water.
A dead fish won't do your water parameters any favours.
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Ken.
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- bradan (bradan)
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Ken.
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- bradan (bradan)
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just tested water in aquarium this evening and both nitrite and nitrate are
ZERO!
so looks like im finally cycled!
took 5 weeks all in all to get both amonia and nitrate to zero.
water looks a little clearer too.
i have some pictures, how do i add them here?[/img]
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- KenS (Ken Simpson)
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Make sure you never add chlorinated water to your tank and always rinse your filter media in tank water.
To post images, you firstly need to host them on one of the many photo hosting sites on the net. Then you paste the URL into your message, select the URL text and then hit the Img button to add the codes.[/img][/url]
Regards,
Ken.
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- bradan (bradan)
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i have noticed on some of my fish, white spots on their fins, on the neon tetras, and some others, what could this be?
water quality is good testing every day.
also on the front of the tank i have noticed an orange colored sorta growth on the tank glass...and the rock in the tank, has also got some orange colored growth on it...any ideas what it could be?
i have added some stress coat to the water, to see if that helps .
i leave the lights on the tank for a few hrs every evening.
cheers
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- apistodiscus (apistodiscus)
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Why your fish got infected might have several reasons. Did you add new fish to your tank? A decrease in water temp through a powercut or faulty heater or water change with cold water added could have brought it on too or your fish could be stressed through several reasons.
Is the orange growth on your tank, is it sort of slimy and more an orange brown than a bright orange? That brown algae. You really shouldn't have the lights on for more than 12 hours a day. You can split this time, ie have it on in the morning while somebody's in the house, turn them off while you are gone to work and switch them back on when you get back home in the evenings
Holger
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- bradan (bradan)
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- KenS (Ken Simpson)
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Take a look at the photos in thsi thread. Is thit what you're seeing?
irishfishkeepers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=602
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Ken.
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- bradan (bradan)
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but the spots only appear on the fins of the fish..
the 2 angel fish are perfect with no spots...
bought the fish in drogheda petshop..
what will i do about the algae? there are fish that eat this , ? what would you recommend
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- Didihno (Didihno)
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I got three pieces of bogwood and a nice big rock and two silk plants for €30.
They had a tank FULL of Hap Cichlids I think selling for 7.50 each.
Only for my tank is still cycling I was going to but 10 of them right then.
No whitespot anywhere that I saw (and I looked) and the usual ammount of dead men including a near skeleton in the cichlid tank that was being torn to shreds.
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- KenS (Ken Simpson)
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The whitespot could have been caused by the stress your fish were under when cycling. It's a parasite that is naturally present, but only becomes a problem when the fish are stessed and their immune system is impacted. It could take a while to show up.
With regard to the algae, there are many causes. I'm dealing with an algae issue on my new 230l tank at the moment. Can you tell us how long your tank has been set up and its size? We also need to know what your current lighting is, how long you have it on for and if you have any plants. Does your tank get any direct sun light?
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Ken.
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- bradan (bradan)
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tank is in sitting room facing north, so it doesent get direct sunlight.
re the lights two lights that came in the hood of the tank... left on for about 3-5 hrs per day.
no natural plants in the tank...
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- Sean (Fr. Jack)
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You've got whitespot. You can get treatments at your local LFS. ESHA whitespot treatment or the stuff tetra have on the market are best. The interpet stuff isn't worth the bottle it's put into. Raise the temperature to 28 C if your fish can handle it and aerate the tank. Follow the instructions on the pack closely and it's best to go for two consecutive treatments.
Holger I dont think this guy has discus? If he must take this advise, watch the resperation rate (gill speed), if they look out of breath I would go back to 26C making sure there is no carbon and keep the treatment up 2 or 3 days after the spots go away.
That would be a ecumenical matter!!!
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- bradan (bradan)
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king british
ws3
white spot terminator
added as per directions on label, water looks green,, is this normal
does the green colour go away after a while?
cheers
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- KenS (Ken Simpson)
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Have a look at this thread which dicusses the algae problem.
www.irishfishkeepers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=623
Regards,
Ken.
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- pjq (pjq)
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The post with the dandruff tetras was my post , and to answer one of your earlier queries ; only the tetras showed clear signs of ich .
Secondly , I used a blue product and noticed that it stained the clear silicone that attaches two horizontal glass strips to the top of the tank .
PJQ
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- Anthony (Anthony)
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ok got a bottle of
king british
ws3
white spot terminator
WS3 does not work. It is the worst product on the market after Melafix.
Protozin would have been much better.
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- KenS (Ken Simpson)
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Yes, you need to remove the carbon from your filter as it will reduce the effectiveness of the medication. You can put it back in after the treatment is finished to remove it from the water.
You should really only have carbon in your filter to remove medication after treatment. I doesn't really serve any other purpose.
Regards,
Ken.
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