Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)
Hi,
John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.
I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.
With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.
I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.
If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.
I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.
I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.
Thank you
Darragh Sherwin
Dead fish after fin rot - should I clean out tank?
- Aims (Aimee Croke)
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- JustinK (Justin Kelly)
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After a 2 week holiday your nitrates shouldnt have climbed too high if you had been on top of your water changes ?
Changing too much water and/or too often will affect the nitrifying bacteria and may even send your tank back into a cycle.
If your fish is stressed, then its immune system will be lowered which will leave it more susceptible to infection.
What Medication did you use ?
These usually take a few days to run a course and generally would be used on their own unless a supplement is suggested in the instructions.
A water change before and after the course is usually standard.
Also just as in humans over medicating will damage the internal organs.
So try to stick to the stated dosage.
It can be hard when you see your fishs health fading.
Without any fish in the tank, the good bacteria will be dying off.
If you've already been getting the nitrate down and have done a water change and gravel vac to remove the medication from the water then you should be good to go.
Did you remove any active carbon from your filter before medicating ? This would remove the med from the water before it got a chance to do anything.
In Juwel filters that would be a black foam pad.
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- Aims (Aimee Croke)
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I removed the carbon from the filter, am going to replace it now to clear out the rest of the medication. So just a water change and gravel vac and I should be good to go again?
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- JustinK (Justin Kelly)
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Just do a test on the parameters again before adding new fish.
There seems to be enough water changed and the new carbon pad should remove any remaining med.
Hopefully the nitrification bacteria levels are still good and you wont go into a cycle again.
If you have another tank you could add some filter squeezings or a drop of a filter start solution.
Are you getting another Betta Splendens ?
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- igmillichip (ian millichip)
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The nitrate level is surprisingly high for a lone betta in a reasonable sized tank....but my guess is that either the tank has had a bacterial bloom of anaerobic bacteria being churned up OR there was a high level of ammonia at some stage.
Ammonia is one of the most common reasons for fin-rot. The effects of a transient ammonia poisoning can last a long time even if the fish isn't killed instantly.
But once you get ragged fins from ammonia, then the fish is more susceptible to bacterial infections (especially on tissue damaged by ammonia).
With siamese fighters in any tank, especially a large one, there is always a potential of food going to the ground and not eaten. That food will be a source of bacteria and fungi that can kill fish (especially if the fish decides to have a nibble of the un-eaten rotten food).
This could be a one-off though. If you go for a siamese fighter again, then have a go at adding peat to the filter.....they prefer quite clean mature (mature does not mean manky) acidic water.
ian
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- Aims (Aimee Croke)
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Tested the water today and nitrate is about 5-10mg/l, nitrite and ammonia - 0. I have Seachem Stability so might use that anyway when I put the new fish in just to be safe.
How long do you reckon I would have before it goes into a cycle again? Not too sure when the LFS will be getting in new Bettas.
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- Aims (Aimee Croke)
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This may seem like a daft question but I'll never know until I ask! This is the filter I have and it takes carbon cartridges that look like this so would I be able to use peat?
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- Aims (Aimee Croke)
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Sorry don't think the link didn't show up on the last post
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- sheag35 (Seamus Gillespie)
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Fishkeeping the Only way to get wet and wild
currently 25 tanks, and breeding is the aim of everything i keep
location:Limerick
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- derek (Derek Doyle)
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i use a pair of old tights with frehly laid pellets inside it and wood on top of that and it works fine for me.. you could try that
that sounds uncomfortable shea lol. stick to laundered underpants.

30 tanks specialise in african cichlids, angelfish and various catfish
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- sheag35 (Seamus Gillespie)
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Fishkeeping the Only way to get wet and wild
currently 25 tanks, and breeding is the aim of everything i keep
location:Limerick
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- igmillichip (ian millichip)
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You need to make sure the denier rating of stockings/tignts is not too low (=fish-net, and the peat will fall out), or too high (eg 60 and above, else there is limited flow and you get stuck bubbles).
There are a few fish that will mix with siamese fighters.
But it is not just who the fighter will pick on, but the fighter itself (especially a male) could be the victim of fin-nippers or fish that simply dominate a feeding area (or are too fast to allow the fighter get food).
I keep mine as solitary fish, but I could easily mix them with a few other fish I have.
Siamese fighter supplies.....the LFS that I tend to get mine from are a little thin on the ground at the present time. They usually get in some very choice specimens; I'm not too sure what other places around the country have.
ian
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- JustinK (Justin Kelly)
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Keep on top of the water changes and vacs and you should be fine.
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- Aims (Aimee Croke)
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There are a few fish that will mix with siamese fighters.
But it is not just who the fighter will pick on, but the fighter itself (especially a male) could be the victim of fin-nippers or fish that simply dominate a feeding area (or are too fast to allow the fighter get food).
What would you recommend putting in with a Betta in a 28 litre tank? I thought it would be a bit small to have any other fish in there.
Don't you just love when the A-Team turn up ?
I never knew the A-team knew so much about tights

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- igmillichip (ian millichip)
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There are a few fish that will mix with siamese fighters.
But it is not just who the fighter will pick on, but the fighter itself (especially a male) could be the victim of fin-nippers or fish that simply dominate a feeding area (or are too fast to allow the fighter get food).
What would you recommend putting in with a Betta in a 28 litre tank? I thought it would be a bit small to have any other fish in there.
Don't you just love when the A-Team turn up ?
I never knew the A-team knew so much about tightsI feel inadequate as a woman not knowing so much about the Denier of tights.
...second point first...


First point.....a bit more serious. The mixing of Siamese Fighters in a community tank is always a bit contentious.
Personally, I think that Males are well best on their own.....but I have also kept them with other fish in the past with success (or what could be perceived as success....as I'm not too sure what the fighting fish recon).
If pushed for answer on putting a male in a community tank then my choice of other fish would be a good shoal of Harlequin Rasboras and a group of Corydoras cats. The corydoras may also be useful in cleaning up food that sinks to the bottom.
That would be one of the safest bets, but not all Corys can tolerate the high temperatures that siamese fighters prefer.
There are other potentials.....but that would be more of an outside chance.
My take is not that the fighter would be the terror in a community tank (apart from a few obvious fish), but the he would be the victim.
Tank size.....I personally think that a properly maintained smallish tank with a good surface area (ie not a tall tubed 28litre tank) can work well for a small group of fish especially if going for a safe community with a male siamese fighter.
Over-large tanks for a siamese fighter male could be the death of him....even if kept alone. He may simply sit in a corner and shy away from food.....and if it is a community tank then there may be more of tendency for him to do that. Not all males will act like that, but on the whole I would make a good assumption that the individual would.
If, however, we were talking about wild male siamese fighters then that is a different story as they can move around with ease and shear aggression.....but they are not really that easy to keep in the first place as they really need special water conditions if you want them to live.
Female fighters are, again, a bit of a different story. I've found that females would be easier to house in a community tank than would males, and be fine in a large community as well.
In my fish keeping history (which is long enough to know about tights and stockings

And when I used to work on trying to perfect strains of fighters, it probably took more time energy and water for a few 2 inch fish than all of my marine and tanganyikan etc tanks put together took.
But.....well.....well worth the effort.
ian
Irish Tropical Fish Society (ITFS) Member.
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