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Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)

Hi,

John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.

I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.

With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.

I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.

If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.

I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.

I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.

Thank you
Darragh Sherwin

Safe unionised ammonia level?

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14 Jul 2013 11:47 #1 by Q_Comets (Declan Chambers)
Hi

So I got a seneye which gives unionised ammonia reading to three decimal places. I have been searching on-line trying to find a safe level or if there is one my current reading is 0.006 and the seneye site has 0.020 set as the danger level.

So I am wondering is less than 0.010 acceptable or should I be getting 0.000 readings?

Thx
Dec

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14 Jul 2013 18:17 #2 by igmillichip (ian millichip)
The ammonia reading is only any use if the pH and temperature are given.

If the test measures unionised ammonia then remember that that can change quite easily with a change in temperature or a change in pH.
Increases in pH or in temperature are likely to increase the unionised ammonia in the tank.

The very toughest of fish that I know of could just about tolerate 0.06 mg/l, but most fish will not stand that level at all.

I would thus take an general upper limit of 0.02 mg/l as an absolute maximum, but really your reading should be at zero for a piece of mind.

0.006 mg/l is probably no more than an normal reading error: these devices are not mega accurate, and the ammonia level will rapidly fluctuate around low levels with even minor changes in temperature and pH.

But....vital: an unionised ammonia reading is of no use unless the pH and temperature are known.

ian

Irish Tropical Fish Society (ITFS) Member.

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14 Jul 2013 18:51 #3 by igmillichip (ian millichip)
I forgot to mention....

if the pH is highish in the tank, and the temperature is also on the high side then the chances of the unionised ammonia going any higher are low.

if the pH and temp of the tank are also very stable, then the chances of the unionised ammonia reading changing from that given are also low. Another reason for stable pH and temperature.

ian

Irish Tropical Fish Society (ITFS) Member.

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14 Jul 2013 22:50 #4 by Q_Comets (Declan Chambers)
Ahh still learning I will at some point remember to include the PH and temp.

Temp is stable at 25 and usually stays within .5 above or below. PH also stays pretty steady at about 7.6 although I just did a 20% change so I am waiting for things to settle again.

Am I correct in thinking that there will be a small ammont of ammonia as it is being excreted by the fish and that the biological filtration will keep it at a safe level or should there be no measurable ammonia with filtration immediately removing ammonia?

After some time on google most of the info is regarding calculating unionised from the total ammonia reading but I already have a very good excel spread sheet for that ;) (thx)

This page was interesting, but I don't have enough knowledge to know how valid it all is.
www.thekrib.com/Chemistry/ammonia-toxicity.html

Maybe I am over thinking this a bit but I really don't want to be very slowly poisoning my fish.

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14 Jul 2013 23:53 #5 by igmillichip (ian millichip)
Did you read the article and download the active spreadsheet at

www.irishfishkeepers.com/index.php/artic...ammonia-calculations


WRT the speed at which ammonia is removed.....

There are 2 major features of any chemical reaction: the thermodynamics and the kinetics.
The equations on ratios of Ionised to Unionised are Thermodynamic properties (as is buffering pH and RedOx and many other things).

The flaw with thermodynamic properties is that they will only tell you if a reaction will occur and which direction is most favourable (eg we know that humpty dumpty will fall one day).

What thermodynanic properties do not tell us is WHEN the change will occur.....that is when Kinetics kicks in.

In the aquarium, the question of ammonia conversion to nitrites etc is a thermodynamic property but the bacteria step in with catalysts to take away the unknown waiting for something to happen. The catalysts in the bacteria speed up the removal of ammonia.

However, it is not instantaneous. Therefore there is always a potential for a lag between the level of ammonia produced and the time for the bacteria to have converted all to zero. If the amount of ammonia produced by the fish (or whatever) is greater than the bacteria can handle in a given period then ammonia levels can remain high for too long.

On the website you cited, it has attempted to go into the effects of pH.....but has failed to address the effect of pH on movement of ammonia from the fish to the water.

ian

Irish Tropical Fish Society (ITFS) Member.

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15 Jul 2013 00:27 #6 by igmillichip (ian millichip)
I just did some calculations on the parameters given.
If at pH 7.6 and temp 25 C you get an unionised ammonia reading of 0.006 mg/l then at pH 7.8 it will be 0.009 (danger), at pH 8 it will be ~0.015 (big danger and potential losses quickly), and at pH 8.5 it will be over double the tough-nut upper level (~0.04 mg/l) if the temp remains at 25 C.

So, there is only a little leeway on allowing the pH to rise.

If the pH remains at 7.6 then you do have quite a leeway with temperature rises (especially on these warm days) eg at 30 C the unionised ammonia would probably be 0.0084 mg/l.

With a reading of unionised ammonia of 0.006 at 25 C and pH 7.6 that indicates the total maximum ammonia possible in the tank is about 0.27 mg/l (that is an awful lot, but you'd need have a pH of over 11 to reach that ;)

All that can be obtained from the spreadsheet I loaded on the article link above.

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15 Jul 2013 08:08 #7 by Q_Comets (Declan Chambers)
Thx Ian

Yes the spread sheet I mentioned is yours.

So I think I get it, current reading is 0.005 which is ok if this rises to 0.01 I am getting to dangerous levels and above that seriously dangerous.

Dangerous levels of unionised ammonia can be reached without any increase in total ammonia due to changes in PH or temp.

I thought the PH reading was a bit high compared to liquid test kit so I reseated the seneye slide under water while doing the water change and the mornings readings are

Nh3 0.005 PH 7.1 temp 24.5

Thx again
Dec

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15 Jul 2013 10:56 #8 by igmillichip (ian millichip)
Cool.

I did a reverse calculation on the spreadsheet to estimate the total ammonia from your reading of unionised ammonia.

On the graphs on the spreadsheet, you can intrapolate to find the percentage (decimal fraction) of unionised at a given pH and temp.
Then I divided 1 by that fraction and multiplied it by your 0.006 reading of unionised to give the maximum total unionised.

Then that number (around 0.271) was entered into the main easy calculator on the first tab, and I simply altered the pH to give the output predictions of unionised at those pHs.

The reason I did the spreadsheet as it was and also gave the equations for calculations is that not everyone has pH and temperatures that can fit into a small neat box.

It's good to see someone is using it :) the chemistry is complex, and the maths are complex though.

It is also good that you are using the Seneye as intended.......using it to monitor trends in chemistry.

Maybe you could do an article review for the piece of kit at some stage.

ian

Irish Tropical Fish Society (ITFS) Member.

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15 Jul 2013 15:09 #9 by Q_Comets (Declan Chambers)
Ooohhhh! From thread to article seems like a bit of a leap

I need to work with the seneye for a bit longer but how do I submit an article for approval? Just in case I get brave.

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15 Jul 2013 15:47 #10 by igmillichip (ian millichip)

Ooohhhh! From thread to article seems like a bit of a leap

I need to work with the seneye for a bit longer but how do I submit an article for approval? Just in case I get brave.


Don't hold back. Never hold back. Just go for it.

You could write a product review and post in the product review section on the forum.
You may even want to look at shops, and see if they offer discounts or card-points for reviewing a piece of equipment they sell (you never know).

Have a look at good product reviews to see what type of format is useful, and put your own opinion.
It is not a review unless you put your opinion.

If you give an honest review that is well written, then even the company may take note and your name could hit the "google" pages.
I've reviewed 2 books in the last few years, and my reviews were used by the publishers in their marketing. That's quite a nice plus-point (plus I got free copies of the book)

ian

Irish Tropical Fish Society (ITFS) Member.

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