×
Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)

Hi,

John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.

I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.

With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.

I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.

If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.

I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.

I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.

Thank you
Darragh Sherwin

I have too much algae forming in my tank.....HELP!

More
09 Jan 2008 00:17 #1 by bigred152 (Shane Reid)
I constantly have to take out my rocks (yes I know that sounds bad):laugh: and clean them. I am just wondering, is there a reason that my tank produces so much algae and if so then how do I slow down this process? :dry:

Would getting otos or rusty plecs help:huh: I had lovely white rocks but they constantly are full of algae and it really diminishes the tanks appeal.

Could somebody please give me advice as I badly need it. Thanks a million ;)

Shane

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
09 Jan 2008 00:59 - 09 Jan 2008 01:03 #2 by tanks_alot (Denis Coghlan)
Hey Big Red

Can we have a bit more information regarding your tank,

Occupants
Volume
Position in your house (i.e. Direct sunlight)
Feeding schedule
Water changes
Lights
Light schedule

etc..... and any other bit of info that you might think is relavant. Excessive algea is normally a problem when there is an excess of something else in the tank.

What type of algea is it?

Lead me not into temptation, For I can find it myself!
Last edit: 09 Jan 2008 01:03 by tanks_alot (Denis Coghlan). Reason: my crappy spelling!!!!!

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
09 Jan 2008 01:35 - 09 Jan 2008 16:59 #3 by bigred152 (Shane Reid)
I have all lake malawi cichlids in it like:
* 1 Red Kandago Female
* 2 Yellow Tailed Acei
* 2 Catfish cant remember which ones exactly
* 4 Yellow Lab 1Male and 1Female and two fry
* 1 Electric Blue Female
* 1 Albino Red Zebra
* 1 Mad looking small.....thing haha I know,I really do narrow it down. It is a small orange base color malawi with black patches all around him/her but I don't know what it is exactly
* 1 Pseudochromis........something I cant remember that name either,I know,its bad haha.

The are in the front living room but they are furthest away from the main window as possible. They are fed once - twice a day

Its a Rio 180 gallon tank

Oh and what would the best light schedule be as I am unsure about that at the minute. It is around 10 hours average now but then again I have had trouble with the light lately so the light decides itself when it wants to turn on and off so it's not really my call :laugh:

The algae is just a green dirty look, but that is all I would know. Sorry

Thanks for showing the interest, appreciate it :cheer:

Shane
Last edit: 09 Jan 2008 16:59 by bigred152 (Shane Reid).

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
09 Jan 2008 20:06 #4 by tanks_alot (Denis Coghlan)
Sounds like you have the normal everyday run-of-the-mill algae. You also have a lot of algae eating specialists in your tank so it shouldn't really be classified as a problem but it can be unsightly! There isn't a great deal you can do to control the amount of greenery your tank.....but;

My suggestions would be as follows;

.)Reduce the amount of food going into the tank and make sure that all food is eaten so that excess nutrients are not released into the water from degrading food. IMO excess and improper feeding leads to the majority of problems associated to water quality problems.

.)I found adding a lights off \"siesta\" period in the middle of the day useful in controlling excessive algae growth in my Rio180 mbuna setup. I would have the lights on for five hours, off for two hours, then on again for another five.

.)Increased water changes will also reduce the levels of phosphates and nutrients that the algae depend on for growth.


Another couple of questions for you,

Do you have an external filter running on the Rio 180?

What type of rock is it that you are trying to keep clean?

If you would like any of the unknown fish identified, take a couple of snaps (don't have to be great, photo pics..etc...) and post them on here. People will only be too happy to help you try and identify them. I will have a go but I will most likely get it wrong!!! Plus your setup sounds great so I personally would like to see a full tank shot!

Lead me not into temptation, For I can find it myself!

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
09 Jan 2008 20:49 #5 by KenS (Ken Simpson)
You should radically reduce the amount of time you have your lights on. Your light schedule is way too much for a tank that doesn't have plants. Fish don't really need light. I have an African tank and only turn the lights on for 4 or 5 hours in the evening when I'm around. There is enough daylight getting to the tank during the day without having the tank lights on. I have a small amount of algae on the rocks in my tank and nothing whatsoever on the glass.

Wish I could say the same for my planted community tank.

Regards,

Ken.

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
10 Jan 2008 01:55 #6 by bigred152 (Shane Reid)
Thanks a lot for the advice....badly needed :blush: haha yeah I will take a few pictues and throw them up........damn,it means I'm going to have to clean my tank now :laugh:

What benefits do the growth of plants in the tank have? Is it just to help oxygen flow and make the tank look better?

Yeah I have a huge external filter which is perfect (or if anything too big) but it does do a great job. I obviously have the internal filter and I have oxygen bubbles pumping in to the back of the tank. It is just improving O2 levels in the tank.

To be perfectly honest I am unsure of the rock but it is a lovely white rock.......but that probably means nothing and I just made a complete arse of meself :cheer:

Oh and the other fish I couldn't remember is a Metriaclima lombardoi female. Had a male but he died.

What would you think is the best food to feed my cichlids? At the minute they get a well balanced diet of flakes,pellets and protein powder. Whenever I remember (which is around once a month unfortunately) I will feed them the bloodworm.

And how often would you recommend changing the water?

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
10 Jan 2008 12:29 #7 by KenS (Ken Simpson)
Plants only serve to decorate a tank as far as I'm concerned. Some fish like them as part of their biotope, but plants are not part of the natural African rift lake biotope. Good surface disruption will aerate the water sufficiently. With no plants, you can reduce the amount of time your lights are on which will reduce algae. A small bit of algae is a good thing in an African tank as they will graze on it.

I wouldn't bother with the protein powder as not all Africans tolerate protein and should be getting enough from their flake/pellets. You should also try and feed them greens at least once a week. I use cucumber or peas. Make sure and cook the peas slightly. Use a bit of tank water in a cup an pop them in the microwave for a minute.

I do a 30-40% water change once a week as a minimum. Overstocking in African tanks means that you have to change a bit extra water.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Ken.

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
10 Jan 2008 13:27 #8 by bigred152 (Shane Reid)
I tried the cucumber but they don't take to it. I don't know why. I might try the peas idea and see how they like that.

Yeah I was reading up about how too much protein for mbunas will make them balloon out.

Thanks a lot for the advice Ken. Appreciate it ;)

Shane

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
10 Jan 2008 19:28 #9 by Sean (Fr. Jack)
You could try 3 peices of straw 6 inches long then in a knot together and throw them into the tank when it starts to rot it realease the right bio protucts to stop the big A,(no toxic to fish unless you throw 2 hands fulls in! also changing your light from 5,600K (warm white or gro lux) to 10,000K (cool white) of if you must have warm white/grolux add loads of java fern/java moss (easiest plants in the world to grow)


starbulletin.com/2004/06/27/editorial/special.html

That would be a ecumenical matter!!!

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.048 seconds
Powered by Kunena Forum