Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)
Hi,
John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.
I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.
With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.
I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.
If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.
I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.
I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.
Thank you
Darragh Sherwin
discus
- patrick cullen (Patrick Cullen)
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- JohnH (John)
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Did all four die from H-I-H?
Generally, that is brought on by either stress or (I don't like to suggest this) poor water quality.
There are better-qualified Discus keepers who will be able to answer you more accurately, but my initial thought is if the tank has been empty of fish for six months the chances are that whatever caused your Discus to contract H-I-H should be long gone. My suggestion, if you have not already done it, would be to thoroughly clean the tank and substrate - possibly even replacing it, and the filter media - then re-fill and re-cycle the water using some 'debris' from one of your existing tank filters from one of the other tanks. A bit drastic, I know - but as you have found, Fish losses (especially expensive ones) can be both very upsetting and hit the pocket too.
John
Location:
N. Tipp
We're just two lost souls swimming in a fish bowl - year after year.
ITFS member.
It's a long way to Tipperary.
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- patrick cullen (Patrick Cullen)
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- igmillichip (ian millichip)
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Even if we look at the putative causal agent (which, by the way, I find no evidence for them being the cause !!!) then that is usually got rid of by things like Octozin. from Waterlife,(using a three day course). eSHA also produce an excellent medication. Both are very safe to use with Discus (although take care about using too much in case of any long-term effects).
Those medication are also good general treatments anyway.
A good clean of the aquarium is good practice anyway. You should not need to do an extended period before re-introducing fish.
But, you need to make sure that it doesn't occur again:.....
Hexamita (or even spironucleus) are not, in my opinion, the cause of H-I-T-H.
They may, however, be detected. Often, in a weakened state, Capilaria worm may compromise the gut....and hexamita and spironucleus (different animals, but very similar) may move from the gut to the rest of the body....including the head and brain region.
Once Hole-in-the-head starts, then there will be secondary bacterial infection that needs to be attended to.
In general, a good varied diet (with vitamins A, C and D...and B's for good measure) with calcium at the very least needs to be given.
The food should not be too heavy on the 'easily digestible' food...else that will cause long-term gut problems.
Clean water.....a must. Clean water beats attempting changing pH and hardness anyday for healthy Discus keeping.
I would advise NOT trying to over-soften the water with H-I-T-H disease; a medium hardness is best and most Discus will cope with that.
Keep the temperature highish (28 to 30 C) unless raising it higher for special treatment purposes.
Still, Hole in the Head is a matter of debate as to the causatuve agent...
but treatments against the 'so-called' agent are still, nonetheless, very useful in treating what is a sick animal.
Ian
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- patrick cullen (Patrick Cullen)
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- igmillichip (ian millichip)
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Cheers for the info Ian just wondering whats a good varied didt apart from the norm e.g bloodworm and flakefood
Discus can be fussy eaters at times…..from being very greedy-eat-anything to the extreme of refusing most foods and then only if you feed them wearing a blue t-shirt 
So, as varied as they will eat.
Uneaten food is often a source of problems in Discus (as any) tank. One nibble of a piece of food that has been left to get fungus on it can be fatally toxic to fish.
As Discus fish are grazers…they tend to be the type of fish that will stumble upon the mouldy food.
I would recommend getting some good quality spirulina flakes to go with the flakes at least. If they eat them, then that will be great.
Minced heart is a good food, but….BUT…BUT…it will cause gut function problems in the long-term as it is soft-easily-digested. That leads to difficulty in digesting it.
For growing Discus up very rapidly, beef heart is often used….but it needs care.
How about frozen brine shrimp? Or frozen daphnia? All good food.
Maybe even a variation on the dried food…something like a granular food maybe.
Unless you have a load of fish, buy smaller containers of food to keep it fresh (in the long term it is good economy).
Avoid fatty foods or high-carbohydrate content food.
And to go with all that food that Discus must have (10% of body weight per day for maximum growth rate), regular partial water changes.
Different people have different water change regimes, and there are many different theories:
10-20% a week is the absolute minimum….but you may wish to try 10-20% per day for young growing fish.
Some go for frequent massive water changes (maybe 90% once per week). That works fine….but needs care, and I would only recommend that method if care can be guaranteed.
One thing that is a real problem is, however, doing very little in water changes then suddenly doing massive water changes.
Use a vitamin B1-based chloramine/chlorine removing and heavy-metal chelating water conditioner on all water changes…eg Aqua-Safe.
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- patrick cullen (Patrick Cullen)
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