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Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)

Hi,

John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.

I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.

With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.

I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.

If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.

I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.

I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.

Thank you
Darragh Sherwin

cycling - what levels to expect?

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01 Aug 2008 16:08 #1 by fourmations (NIall SMyth)
hi all

theres lots of info on cycling on the web
but i cant see anything on the levels to expect

my ammonia is crawling up
its 0.25 after ten days (api master test kit)
O nitrites, ph - 7.4 approx, o nitrates

should it be going faster?
i had a goldfish in it for three days
the an empty tank for three days and then
started feeding the empty tank for the last
three days,

is this normal

what level will the ammomnia reach?
what levels will the nitrites reach?
what level of nitrates is okay?

sorry i know this is tedious stuff for yis
but i cant find it on the web

rgds

4

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01 Aug 2008 16:15 #2 by karlo (karlo kennedy)
in regard to the nitrites (NO2-) level in parts per million (ppm) which are equivalent to milligrams per Liter (mg/L) from 0 ppm to 5.0 ppm, in either fresh or saltwater aquariums.
hope this is of some use to you

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01 Aug 2008 16:17 #3 by karlo (karlo kennedy)
The bacterium that converts Nitrite to Nitrate develops in our aquarium and pond filters but it takes time for it to reach sufficient levels. Once established, the bacteria can be disrupted by cleaning or replacing your filter cartridges and other filter material or by using some medications. Adding additional fish and excessive feeding can also overwhelm our filters and result in higher Ammonia and thus higher Nitrite levels too.

Testing will enable you to detect whether Nitrite is present and if so, allow you to take steps to remove it before it reaches toxic levels. Nitrite will prevent fish from carrying on normal respiration and high levels will result in fish death. Even trace levels will stress fish and suppress their immune system, increasing the likelihood of disease. Testing your water is fairly simple and there are a number of inexpensive test kits that will enable you to do so. Ideally your Nitrite should be ZERO

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01 Aug 2008 19:19 #4 by adamireland (Adam Jackson)
ammoina levels and readings will depend on the bio load of the tank.. if you feed alot or have a lot of fish then the ammonia will be high.

0.25 wont kill your fish.. but if thats the highest its gone then your NitrIte wont go up much either. beacteria will grow faster at higher PH's (above 7) so if you want to speed the process slow your filter and raise the PH..

NitrAte levels are acceptable within 0 - 40ppm but ideally about 5ppm (i keep mine at 0 - 5ppm)

HTH

Adam

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02 Aug 2008 11:26 #5 by umm (karen baker)
Hi. I cycled my tank for nearly 4 weeks by feeding it with koi pellets and the highest the Ammonia got up to was 1.0, Nitrite was 1.0 and Nitrate got to was 10. Then Ammonia went to 0 overnight at week 3, Nitrite to .50 and then to .25 then 0. It stayed like that for 5 days(Nitrate was at 5), then I added some danios. The following week I added some Red nose tetras and Torpedo barbs. Had a little emergengy though, the power went (dont know for how long, no more than an hour or two though) and next day Ammonia went to .25. Not sure if my bio filter was affected by power loss or if it was something else. Anyway have done a 10% water change every 2 days since and everything seems fine now. I have read on web, people bringing their Ammonia up to 5.0.

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02 Aug 2008 15:56 #6 by ANDKRY (ANDKRY)
Replied by ANDKRY (ANDKRY) on topic Re:cycling - what levels to expect?
Hi,
I was worried a lot at the beginning. Kept my tank empty of any fish for 7 weeks. Then, bought danios and the first week they settled Ammonia went down drastically. Also, you can see the bacteria boom when the water becomes cloudy. I was watching the show for two days - water was cloudy - and on the third day it became clear as a tear. And as I understand there are two stages - first bacteria that help to turn ammonia to nitrites then another \"show\" - new wave of bacteria - nitrite to nitrate. Was changing the water almost every day. Now Ammonia - nill, nitrite - nill, nitrate - less than 5. Also, used some conditioners - although - don't know if they helped. And watch the fish - if they are funny, playful and full of life then it's OK.
The best approach is - if you are not sure - test your water every day and read the recommendations to the tests - usually they give good advice. It is OK if all dangerous levels are going down - means your tank is getting to the norm. And I hope more experienced people on the forum will help you definitely - just ask. Forum is to help the sort as meself - newbies. And they helped me a lot.
All the best,
Andrei.

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06 Aug 2008 08:41 - 06 Aug 2008 08:46 #7 by dzbtrout (David Zarza)
I am a novice so please feel free to correct me. I am just speaking from my own experience of fishless cycling with ammonia solution.

What I have seen as the great advantage of this method is that from day one you have control of what is the load of ammonia ppm.

I was able to push the ammonia reading on day one at 5.0 ppm with 35 drops of ammonia solution at 9%. Then I kept repeating the dose until the nitrite appears....and at that moment cutting the dose to a half until both ammonia and nitrite read nil.

At the time I was dosing 35 drops per day I was certainly worried as i thought it would be far too much. The reading on day 4 and onwards was very high (probably 10-20 ppm). I thought I had spoiled the water beyond recovery. However I stuck to it and then it just happened like a miracle... ammonia readings were less and nitirite started to raise. From then all happened really fast.

I also think that the advantage of the method is that the bacteria colony stablished is strong enough to handle the introduction of several fish at the end of the cycling. Because the ammonia load has been so heavy the tank has now the capacity to accept several fish.

My tank has fish only for the last 4 weeks and my readings have been consistenly 0-0. I was away for 7 days last week and coming back home I was deleighted to see that it was still 0-0...

Hope this helps in any way.
Last edit: 06 Aug 2008 08:46 by dzbtrout (David Zarza).

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06 Aug 2008 11:17 #8 by Fishowner (Gavin fishowner)
My Nirtrite is always Zero thankfully but my Nitrate is never 0 ?! Its usually about 20 Mg/L or a tiny bit higher..

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07 Aug 2008 21:39 #9 by fourmations (NIall SMyth)
newbie cycle log, day 20............

okay....todays questions.....

my tank has started to show nitrates on the increase
(a tiny bit - 0.5 or so)

my nitrates have been 0 since day one
my ammonia is about 1.5

i am feeding the tank with flakes once a day
there is a freeze dried shrimp festering in there too

i was expecting a nitrite reading before the nitrate

what gives? is this okay?


another question.......

all the flakes that are going in are turned furry

i obviously have to suck up the manky flakes
with my siphon when the tank is cycled, but its that it?


last one....

i need to transfer the water out of my tank before i stock,
because...
i need to reattach the juwel filter as i cut it away to clean it when i got my 2nd hand tank and i want a 3d background in my tank

i was going to just siphon it into a friends empty tank
and do what i need to do and then siphon back out

i am cycling this water at the moment which is why
i want to keep it when doing my own tanks bits,
any issues with my plan?, (his own tropical tank was wiped out when his heater was accidentally turned off while he was away)

rgds

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27 Aug 2008 15:39 #10 by fourmations (NIall SMyth)
hi all

i have made a mess of the cycling process twice!
I wont go into my embarassing journey
but heres where I am now....

I have two silvertip tetras in a tank reading
ammonia .75 , nitrite 0, nitrate 0

the ammonia was at 1ppm a couple of days ago
so i did water changes and it seems to be sitting on .75

I have read that if i go crazy doing waterchanges
the cycle will will not kick in properly as there
will not be enough ammonia

so, at what ppm level of ammonia would you
do waterchanges for the good of the fish,
but still let the cycle happen

rgds

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27 Aug 2008 16:44 #11 by niko001 (Noel Cutajar)
I would leave the tank in peace for some days before doing any water changes. If it goes beyond 1, I would do a 25% water change. It is best to carry out small water changes rather than a large one. What kind of test kit are you using?

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27 Aug 2008 17:39 #12 by mickeywallace (Michael Wallace Cath Woods)
cycling a tank were there is a million questions and thousands of millions answer.

fish less is best!!!!

but were fish are involved things vary in many ways.

yes water changes will be need but your fish will help you as will your test kit its a fine balance but vilagence is key!!!!

if the fish are not stressing than hold off on water changes

watch the fish gills if the colour starts to change then a small water change of 10% and then do not allow to go above that level in time you will see it go down naturally then stage one should be complete nitrites nitrate should follow in the same pattern.

i would suggest you test mains water/supply

we don't see it mentioned much these days but in years past we would have heard \"new tank syndrome\" banded around a lot but the term seem to have fallen from grace. this was were a tank had been incorrectly cycled or water changes to quickly a tank would appear to be cycled and for a period of time would run correctly but for some reason around ninety days this would change and the tank would crash.

if you get the right balance stress free fish while providing enough ammonia to encourage beneficial bacteria to grow and spread throughout your system then you will have started along the correct path to a trouble free beautiful tank with healthy fish

Mickey Wallace & Cath Woods

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27 Aug 2008 20:46 - 27 Aug 2008 20:47 #13 by fourmations (NIall SMyth)
hi guys

thanks for the replies

niko,
so 1ppm would be the ceiling before water changes, yes?
thats what i wanted, an actual number! ta
(i use the api master kit)

mickey, i was fishless cycling and the way i
approached it was recommended from several different sites
but it did not work out well, i drained the tank and started again, i then used safestart incorrectly, and was finally advised to get two small fish after telling the lfs my story

i would have rathered to fishless cycle, but the tetras are in now, they seem very happy though, active, chasing around
and look fine,

they are my priority and i dont see them as disposable cycle fish or anything, and i will do my very best to look after them

thanks

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Last edit: 27 Aug 2008 20:47 by fourmations (NIall SMyth).

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