Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)
Hi,
John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.
I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.
With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.
I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.
If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.
I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.
I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.
Thank you
Darragh Sherwin
Annoying Nitrite spike!!!
- ger310 (Ger .)
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Fed the fish as normal this morning and all looked fine,came in about an hour ago and they were all gasping at the surface.....checked equipment and all fine,then did water tests and Nitrite was at 2.0 ppm......i immediately did a 50% water change and fish are now looking a little better but i know i'm not out of the woods yet...i will do tests in the morning and 10% water change till it's zero but my question is(sorry about the essay,didn't want to leave anything out)....What could of triggered this spike??? bugging me so it is
Thanks for reading and any help appreciated
Ger
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- mickdeja (Mick Whelan)
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Follow me up to Carlow
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- ger310 (Ger .)
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ger
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- ger310 (Ger .)
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thanks,ger
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- DJK (David Kinsella)
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www.irishfishkeepers.com/index.php/fforu...-rise-question#10318
I'd suggest you do 25% daily water changes until your readings come down to zero. Also if you can get your hands on the 'Prime' brand water conditioner and use it at 5 times the recommended dosage on the bottle it will detoxify the nitrite present even though you will still get a reading of nitrite on your test kit. This will obviously help your fish immensely while your bacterial colonies get back up to speed. Reducing feeding will also help.
Dave
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- ger310 (Ger .)
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i'll keep up the daily changes until i get it down to zero and maybe feed them every other day.....i have added 'prime' conditioner but not the amount that you suggested so i will add more!!
Thanks again Dave,much appreciated
Ger
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- igmillichip (ian millichip)
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My ex- used to give out to me saying that she needed a dictionary to be able to follow my songs.
If you have a 2ppm nitrite reading then even a 75% water change would just about bring the level to the maximum acceptable for fish (some fish may take higher than 0.5ppm, but generally you need a level much lower than that).
But, and there is always a 'but', the high nitrite may have already done permanent damage:
in some cases that permanent damage is not fatal, but in others it may be acutely fatal within days (even if you do manage to reduce the nitrite levels).
I would usually always question a test kit as standard routine.
If there is no obvious problems, then the test kit may be at fault.
But if you are losing fish or they are showing signs of illness then something is wrong (irrespective of the test kit).
In an ideal world (ie one that exists that in a text book but not in any real situation), your system is supposed to go from ammonia to nitrites to nitrates (ie the 'standard' cycle route).
So long as nothing goes wrong in a tank, then why question the 'text-book' cycle route (the text book is wrong, but it doesn't matter if everything is OK).
Where you would probably find problems is trying to explain what happens in real life if something goes wrong.
Typically we often seen nitrite spikes in:
a recently set-up tank; or
one that has had potent medication; or
a filter system failure (caused by poisoning, poor cleaning, or power failure etc)
But, you can end up with a nitrite spike or an ammonia spike even in a 'cycled' tank (but I don't like that word anyway) even if you do clean your filters properly and have no failure of filters.
In a classical text book scenario, you get
Ammonia > nitrites
Nitrites > nitrates
Nitrates > diluted by water changes, or removed by plants, or you may have some denitrification turning the nitrates to nitrogen gas (by bacteria under anaerobic conditions).
BUT...in the real fish tank, you get the above plus the following under certain conditions:
Ammonia + Nitrite > Nitrogen Gas (this is called Anaerobic Ammonia Oxidation)
Nitrites > Ammonia
Nitrates > Nitrites (and then to ammonia)
Nitrates > Nitrous Oxide (and some other nitrogen gases)
Nitrates > nitrogen gas (eg catalyed by managanese...this is called 'chemodenitrification')
Ammonia > nitrogen gas (eg catalysed by permanganate in the water....this is 'chemoxidation')
and
Nitrite > Nitrogen gas (by something called 'Oxygen-Limited Autotrophic Nitrification-Denitrification').
Part of the normal process of bacterial denitrification can be interrupted and that would release nitrites.
So....apart from a few more words to google, the system is not easy. It is only when something goes wrong that these complexities come into play.
ian
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- igmillichip (ian millichip)
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It is an antidote to some, but not all, poisoning effects of nitrites and nitrates.
ian
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- ger310 (Ger .)
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You wrote about typical Nitrite spikes in new set-ups,potent medication and filter system failure,but 'i think' none of the above applies to me.....after that you lost me a bit in Chemistry,but i kinda know were you were going so thanks.......Hopefully i will get the Nitrite down to zero real soon and there is no major damage to the fish,here's hoping!!
And thanks for mentioning Methylene blue,i just googled it(doing a lot of googling lately)and it gets the'thumbs up' from many hobbiests so that will be purchased tomorrow!!
Thanks very much Ian,i never thought the day would come when i'm interested to know what a word like 'chemodenitrification' means....yes yes google has being a very busy little bee!!
Cheers man,Ger
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- igmillichip (ian millichip)
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There is not too much chemistry in the above reply.
But it should show that things are not as simple as is often thought.
On names and terms....the reaction where nitrite is converted to nitrogen gas:
Nitrite > Nitrogen gas (by something called 'Oxygen-Limited Autotrophic Nitrification-Denitrification').
has been give a pet-name: OLANDO....."oxygen-limited.." blah blah.... I'm sure that who ever came up with that name probably more interested in coining a new term than in explaining the science

The bottom line on the few reactions I mentioned is that even if you have a 'fully mature and cycled tank' that suddenly there is a potential for the system to go into reverse.
at the the start you get ammonia (max 0.02ppm for the toughest fish)....that 0.02ppm may get converted to nitrite (and here the tough fish could tolerate 0.5ppm)...then that gets converted to nitrates (and tough fish could tolerate 90ppm).
SO....you could have a tank with, say 20ppm of nitrate and many fish may be OK.....but if suddenly some of that starts to get converted in reverse to nitrites then you have the potential of much of that 20ppm of nitrates being converted to nitrites: and the concentration of nitrites would be much higher than you'd ever get from the initial ammonia to nitrite route.
A few pictures and diagrams are the best way to explain the chemistry though.
Somewhere in my original reply here is the answer to what has happened in your tank (unless you have introduced pure nitrite salt from the chemists)....but which one exactly is not easy to tell without a complete history and analysis of the tank.
ian
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