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Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)

Hi,

John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.

I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.

With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.

I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.

If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.

I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.

I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.

Thank you
Darragh Sherwin

Nitrates.

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09 May 2012 13:31 #1 by SpiderMonkey (Mark O'Neill)
Can any body tell me how to get nitrates Up!
My planted tank is reading zero!


Mark

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09 May 2012 13:44 #2 by BillG (Bill Gray)
Replied by BillG (Bill Gray) on topic Re: Nitrates.
Hi Mark,

not sure of how to get the nitrates up, so not much use to you as a response.
Just to confirm, had a similar situation in my own planted tank and it was actually down to false readings from the test kit. There was nothing wrong with the kit, just me being a Muppet :) If you are using an API master test kit, then you really do need to ensure you follow the instructions to the letter for the test. Ensure you shake the reagent for at least 2 minutes before use and also follow the instructions around how to add the reagents to the test sample. In the office at the minute so can’t recall if the Nitrate or Ammonia test where it states that reagent #1 should be added and well shaken into the sample before adding reagent #2, but it’s definitely in the instructions for one of them. Based on my own experience, this all makes a significant difference to the results. You would be amazed at the difference it makes to the results :whistle:

If you are following the instructions to the letter, then this reply is no use to you :)

Cheers,

Bill.

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09 May 2012 15:28 #3 by Ski (Alan McGee)
Replied by Ski (Alan McGee) on topic Re: Nitrates.
It's the second bottle you have to shake for over two minutes.

Wish i could give you some of my nitrate :)

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09 May 2012 16:12 #4 by SpiderMonkey (Mark O'Neill)
Thanks lads

It's an old kit so I bought some water to seahorse for a double check and still zero!
I'm just doing another test as i type and hold on..... Yes zero :blink:

Would more fish waste bring it up?


Mark

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09 May 2012 16:33 #5 by ghart (Greg Hart)
Replied by ghart (Greg Hart) on topic Re: Nitrates.
Mark
Throw up a few pictues of the planted tank.
What size is it and how many fish.

Try a search on the web for Potassium Nitrate (KNO3)
Should be available for aquarium use.

Greg

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09 May 2012 16:41 #6 by BillG (Bill Gray)
Replied by BillG (Bill Gray) on topic Re: Nitrates.
Hi Mark,

can you give some details on the tank size, filter type, stock – heavily or lightly, how heavily planted, co2, light levels etc. This will help in determining the best option to bring your nitrate levels up. Are you seeing any issues with Algae? Usually when the nitrates get that low, you will see algae use the available phosphates in the tank and you can find you get overrun with algae in no time.
Feeding the fish more is not necessarily the best option to increase the nitrates, it can lead to other problems, particularly if the extra food is not consumed in a reasonable timeframe.

For a planted tank you want your nitrates in the range of 5 to 15 mg/L if you are adding CO2 and have a high level of light. Under medium light intensity and added CO2, you could run up to 25mg/l.
One thing you need to keep an eye on too is the levels of phosphates in the tank, ideally you want the phosphates to be 10 to 20 times lower than the nitrates.
You could be better off adding nitrates to the tank in the form of Potassium Nitrate (KNO3), I think you can order this from Aquaworld Aquariums in the sponsors section :) they do a lot of supplies for dry ferts used in the EI method. I am sure you could source them elsewhere too, but I can only think of these guys off hand. If you are monitoring your nitrate levels while adding nitrates to the tank, you ideally want to monitor the phosphate levels too, at least until you are happy that things are stable.

Cheers,

Bill

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09 May 2012 16:54 - 09 May 2012 16:56 #7 by SpiderMonkey (Mark O'Neill)
I don't know how to link it but if you put in OptiWhite 66x45x45 Planted Tank Journal into the search box you'll see it..

I'm having a nightmare with algae

Mark
Last edit: 09 May 2012 16:56 by SpiderMonkey (Mark O'Neill).

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09 May 2012 17:13 #8 by SpiderMonkey (Mark O'Neill)
Sorry for the short replys Bill I'm juggling two kids here as we speak :blink:

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09 May 2012 18:09 #9 by igmillichip (ian millichip)
Zero nitrates are not ideal, but most Nitrate test kits are not superbly accurate anyway....so it may be that the sensitivity of a low nitrate reading read as zero.


Now, really, you don't actually want a nitrate test kit that can read at low values anyway because what the kit actually measures is nitrites. Therefore the total nitrates shown by a test kit is actually the sum of nitrites concentration in your tank plus the sum of nitrite concentration in the test tube.

If you had a true zero nitrate in your tank, but you had, say a 0.5 mg/l nitrite then a sensitive test kit would read the nitrite as if it were nitrate and give you a result of 0.5 mg/l nitrate.

But, do you really need to raise the nitrates?

Although most higher plants prefer to use nitrate in higher pH and Oxidising conditions, there is also a tendency for plants in lower pH and in a Reducing environment to uptake ammonium and amino acids as a nitrogen source (and if those conditions get very acidic, then the plant prefers to eat meat direct from an insect).

Raising one component (eg nitrates) is not always a good idea as it introduces an imbalance into the water.

Maybe the problem you have is already due to an imbalance.....possibly use a phosphate and silicate removing filter (they are a few euro) to lower those components.
I use Manado for that in a filter.

ian

Irish Tropical Fish Society (ITFS) Member.

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09 May 2012 21:50 - 09 May 2012 21:52 #10 by SpiderMonkey (Mark O'Neill)
Thanks Ian I didn't want to pm you again thought you might of been hungover from last nights meeting :sick:

Is there a test for phosphate and silicate

Mark
Last edit: 09 May 2012 21:52 by SpiderMonkey (Mark O'Neill).

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09 May 2012 22:03 #11 by igmillichip (ian millichip)
I was in a rush to reply last night as I was just grabbing some siamese for someone, and getting to the meeting. So apologies if the reply was rushed.

Yep, there are tests for phosphates and silicates. I know JBL do them, and presume other companies sell them as well.

Personally, I wouldn't spend my money on such things unless it is suspected that they are damaging fish health OR unless you want to do some experiments and report the results back to everyone. :)

Money may best be spent on a phosphate filter media (JBL do that as well....it is probably called PhosEx, and probably contains Manado??? I'm only guessing on that by the way ;)...so don't quote me).

The silicates really only become a problem if you suspect that you have diatoms (brown 'algae').

Ian

Irish Tropical Fish Society (ITFS) Member.

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09 May 2012 22:07 #12 by SpiderMonkey (Mark O'Neill)
No problems ian, i was just looking at the JBL phosphate filter media doesn't that lower nitrates?

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09 May 2012 22:15 #13 by manius112 (Mariusz Kaminski)
ehhhh Mark my dear friend:-)

you have stuff from Tropica contains N and P (nitrogen (N) or phosphorus (P)) and its already balanced.
If you have reading at 0 thats mean plants absorbing all and from last test I did for you P=0 and if you did fallow my last instructions all you have to do now is increase liquid daily dosage and keep using K (potassium) I give you.

I'm finding JBL tests best so far if any one want my opinion.

igmillichip is right about imbalance but not from reason I ask you to fallow some steps. WC you did in last few weeks and all treatment was to balance tank without any chemicals. Its takes time but cost noting and defo don't harm fish like all removals etc.

Do you get more algae than last time??

If you need to increasing only N KNO3 will be right stuff.

If I can good remember KNO3 contains K 38,70%; NO3 61,00% ; N 13,80%.
Max dissolve is 31g in 100ml of water in 20 Celcius.

So if you use 44g of KNO3 in 500ml of RO = in 10 liters tank increase NO3 - 5ppm

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09 May 2012 22:28 - 09 May 2012 22:28 #14 by SpiderMonkey (Mark O'Neill)
Last edit: 09 May 2012 22:28 by SpiderMonkey (Mark O'Neill).

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