Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)
Hi,
John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.
I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.
With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.
I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.
If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.
I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.
I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.
Thank you
Darragh Sherwin
Re: uv filter
- suckers (matt lait)
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what would be the best way to do things?
would a uv filter help?
water prams are as follows
PH 6.80
CARB HARDNESS 10 (this has usually been 6)
TOTAL HARDNESS 14
NITRITE(NO‚)0
NITRATE(NOƒ)25
thanks
matt
ps can anyone suggest a testing kit good for a colourblind person ( i have red green or brown copper tetras!!!!)
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- KenS (Ken Simpson)
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Whoever told you to do a water change every 2 or 3 months is talking through their a**e. I would avoid that shop if I were you.
10% weekly is even low. I would aim for 30% at a minimum. Green water is essentially water borne algae. Bigger water changes will help. A UV Steriliser or UV Clarifier will also help, but are expensive solutions when all else fails. Try bigger water changes and see hnow you go. Also be careful you're not overfeeding as that can contribute to algae.
Sorry I can't help on the test kit for colour blindness. Now that I think of it, that would be a problem. I use the API kit and find it good, but I'm not colour blind.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Ken.
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- Acara (Dave Walters)
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As Ken says,a uv steriliser,or even clarifier will help,but not neccesarily eradicate the problem.As I was told last night,most uv's are put on the hose for an external filter,the water flow is just simply too fast to be effective.You need the water to be flowing very slowly.Also,if particles are large or clumped together,then only those parts facing the light will be damaged or destroyed,the rest being 'sheltered' and passing through the machine unaffected.
As for water changes,again I agree with Ken.Every 2 or 3 months is very bad advice indeed(but I dont know what that was based on,eg,are you using the organic stuff).I would tend to go for at least 25-30pc each week,especially if you are having problems.That nitrate is a bit high,try and keep it at 20 max.
Dave
always on the lookout for interesting corys.pm me if you know off any!
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- sheag35 (Seamus Gillespie)
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Fishkeeping the Only way to get wet and wild
currently 25 tanks, and breeding is the aim of everything i keep
location:Limerick
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- suckers (matt lait)
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i was gonna rely more on my lfs in my home town (owner has kept fish since he was 8).
i think my readings are a bit over the place both from the test im using(aqua activ) and the colour blindness.
mind you ive now gone from 5 readings a week to 1 or 2
and also make provision for water changes as i know they affect the readings.
thanks again ken
keep up the good work
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- suckers (matt lait)
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i was thinking of more water changes but this is my tap water after 1 hr standing
PH-VALUE 7.6
CARBONATE HARDNESS 15
TOTAL HARDNESS 15
NITRITE(NO‚) 0
NITRATE(NOƒ) 50
and sometimes like it comes straight from the swimming pool or bottle of bleach!
sheag i have 9 maturing plants already in tank ( cant remember the names) with more would i have to be looking into co2?. ive been leaving the lights off for most of the day ( very little sunlight into the rooom either) to try and combat the green water but this is inturn affecting plants, right or wrong??
matt
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- dclifford (Derek Clifford)
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A couple of weeks ago I bought and installed a UV sterilizer. I dropped the light to 4hrs a day while it was running. With about 5 days the water was sparkling. I have since moved the UV to another tank.
I had the UV sterilzer running on a power head. I had a sponge squeezed into the inlet so I could reduce the flow rate of the water. The lower the flow rate the better tha UV will destroy the single cell algae. The longer the cell is exposed to the UV the more the DNA is broken down. The instructions for the UV sterilizer should have a chart of the flow rate required.
If you PM me I can send on the details of where I got the sterilizer and how much I paid. I have a recent thread with images of the before and after too.
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- Cardnim (Andrew Hanley)
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Your plants will be affected by the blackout, but will survive for up to a week in total darkness (some plant species may be more or less this to a certain degree)
Regards the CABOMBA to combat the algae - well, yes I suppose ina well balanced tank with no extra phosphates, nitrates and potassium then yes, algae will be outcompeted; but usually, theres enough for everyone, and the plants and algae all grow happily together!

P.S. cabomba doesnt like alot of calcium in the water, and with a hardness at 10 its perhaps alittle hard for them. You'll soon know if you plant it as it will break apart in the water (as will any Elodea family) so perhaps some hygrophila or floating monoselenium (which has a natural algacide in it)
The mono should love your harder water, and it doesnt like alot of light so could be perfect?
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- suckers (matt lait)
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pm sent dclifford...... mind you thie lights are on only for about 6 hrs a day for the mo (night time 6 pm till 12 am)
cardnim im just not turning on the lights but there is still light from the room getting in to the tank but still i do see a drop off of the plants growth
Acara do you have any comments on this ( www.virtualvillage.ie/Items/001490-009? ) and what exactly would it test for? if you know that is
many thanks
matt
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- Daragh_Owens (Daragh Owens)
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just saw your other post about reading test strips and remembered this thread that that I did not reply

The meter shown in the link would not be my first choice, unknown brand and strange claim of six functions:
CF - conductivity factor
EC - electrical conductivity
pH - alkalinity and acidity
PPM - parts per million
TDS - total disolved solids
Temperature
PPM is the scale for reading TDS the \"fifth\" item, not any measure on it's own. So a meter called \"Six in One\" that does not even do that is not a good buy.
CF, EC and TDS are all reading the same thing, but presenting the results in a different format. So essentially it is reading, TDS (dissolved solids in the water or hardness) pH and Temp.
I am sure you already have something for temp, so all you are getting is a pH meter and TDS meter, there are several available for less cost. Check your local LFS to see if they can supply one or failing that, check out stores.ebay.co.uk/monitors-direct
You can purchase nitrate meters, but they are extremely expensive, last time I researched them they were around 500 euro so unless you win the lotto I would try the test strips Platy252 mentioned in the other thread. I use them sometimes when I am lazy or checking a lot of tanks and find them quite reliable. I have not used the Tetra strips as I heard they were not great, but I have used eSHa strips and JBL strips and found them fine.
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- suckers (matt lait)
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when i win the lotto ill get everyone something aswell!!!!!
looks like another tube of strips for me then
matt
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