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Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)

Hi,

John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.

I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.

With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.

I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.

If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.

I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.

I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.

Thank you
Darragh Sherwin

Algae Bloom

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23 Apr 2011 11:18 #1 by Dejwys (Deividas K.)
Hi everyone, about week ago I got few new plants, so I did a bit of aquascaping in my tank and after that BOOM ! cloudy water, now it turned to green water, dont know what to do... Did few water changes, but its keep coming back.Here is foto of my tank today

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23 Apr 2011 11:19 #2 by Dejwys (Deividas K.)
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23 Apr 2011 11:20 #3 by Dejwys (Deividas K.)
SET UP INFO


Rio 125 L

Filtration:
JBL CrystalProfi e700

Lighting:
24W JBL Natur
24W JBL Marin Day

Heater:
Trixie Aqua Pro 100 W

Co2:
Fire Extinguisher

Substrate:
JBL Manado + JBL ProFlora

Fertilization:
JBL Ferropol24 + EasyLife EasyCarbo

Flora:
Hygrophila Polysperma
Cryptocoryne Wendtii
Echinodorus Amazonicus
Micranthemum Umbrosum
Fittonia Verschaffeltii
Echinodorus Tenellus
Rotala Rotundifolia

Fauna:
2x Pearl Gouramis
4x Dwarf Gouramis
5x Neon Tetras
3x Harlquin Rasbora
3x Corydoras
1x Red Eye Tetra
1x Rainbow Shark
1x Clown Loach

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23 Apr 2011 11:35 - 23 Apr 2011 11:36 #4 by stretnik (stretnik)
Replied by stretnik (stretnik) on topic Re: Algae Bloom
It should go away of it's own accord, it doesn't look like it's by a window so Sun light shouldn't be the problem, try to reduce your lighting by an hour or an hour and a half each day to see if it gets any better.

How long do you leave your lights on for?

And, by the way, if you are using the Fire Extinguisher CO2, you don't need the Easy Carbo.

Kev.
Last edit: 23 Apr 2011 11:36 by stretnik (stretnik).

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23 Apr 2011 12:13 #5 by Dejwys (Deividas K.)
My lights was for 10 hour a day until I got this problem. I left lights off for 2 days, water was a bit better after that I left lights on for few hours evening time and it turned cloudy again

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23 Apr 2011 12:48 #6 by stretnik (stretnik)
Replied by stretnik (stretnik) on topic Re: Algae Bloom
Drop your hours to 6, more than enough for your Plants, I keep mine on from 1 till 9 , this will cause the Algae to die off but keep up the water changes as dying Algae decomposes and will cause nitrates.

Kev.

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23 Apr 2011 13:10 #7 by Dejwys (Deividas K.)
ok, ill try it. How often and how mutch water to change u recomend?

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23 Apr 2011 13:13 #8 by stretnik (stretnik)
Replied by stretnik (stretnik) on topic Re: Algae Bloom
Just your normal, around 20% every week as any more and you are introducing nutrients from the Tap.


Kev.

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23 Apr 2011 14:24 #9 by Dejwys (Deividas K.)
Thanks for advice Kev, and have a good Easter ! ;)

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23 Apr 2011 23:52 #10 by joey (joe watson)
Replied by joey (joe watson) on topic Re: Algae Bloom
just to add, i think marine lights are not so good for planted freshwater tanks. i'd recommend t5's (budget permitting) and reflectors.

follow stretnik's advice, and as said it'll go in time its often appearing in newly set-up tanks but disappears as the tank settles. just wait till you get the BBA phase, bloody nightmare!

Location: Portlaoise, Midlands

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24 Apr 2011 10:38 #11 by Dejwys (Deividas K.)
Draco, if u saying that need 0.5W for 1 L, 0.5W x 125L = 62.5W . I have 2x 25W so its 50W together, T5 and Im using reflectors aswell.how mutch more light do I need? and what type tubes is the best for planted tank? Light system I use is: Hagen T5 HO Flourescent Lighting System 2x 24W. So as far I understand, I can't get more wats with this system right?

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24 Apr 2011 10:58 - 24 Apr 2011 11:04 #12 by stretnik (stretnik)
Replied by stretnik (stretnik) on topic Re: Algae Bloom
Hi,

I guess the proof of the pudding is in the eating, I am using 2 T5 24w High Output on my Lido 120 which looks as deep if not deeper than your Tank, I use CO2 and Seachem complete Fertiliser. All I can say is, if your Tank is close to the Dimensions of mine and you are more or less doing what I am, I will put it down to your setup being new, just give it time.

www.irishfishkeepers.com/index.php/fforu...colate-gourami#95776



As an after thought, Algae feeds on nutrients and light, your plants are growing slowly at the moment so I would stop fertilising altogether except for the CO2, the Algae should use up the nutrient available to them and should improve your Waters appearance.

Kev.
Last edit: 24 Apr 2011 11:04 by stretnik (stretnik).

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24 Apr 2011 21:18 #13 by Katherine (Katarzyna Glebocka)
Dejwys,

As Joey suggests, I would change this marine tube for the one that is dedicated to planted tanks, immediately. My tank was also supplied with marine and daylight tubes and it was a nightmare for my plants that were not developing properly...
At the moment I wouldn't add any additional lighting untill you solve the algae problems. Follow Kevin's instuctions and everything will be OK. As you know in this hobby results are not seen at once, time is needed.

Coming back to the lighting. The reflectors are told to increase lighting by up to 20%, let say it's 10%. On the example of my tank (Juwel Vision 260l) that was originally desigend with 2 T8 (38W) tubes. I replaced them for a new ones with reflectors and I added the third one but I wasn't supplied with the reflector. So, I decided to put an aluminium kitchen foil on the flaps of the canopy and I have impression that there is slightly better ligh in the tank. But all this experiments with lighting I would do after solving algae probles not to cause additional probles now.

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27 Apr 2011 19:10 #14 by Dejwys (Deividas K.)
Katherine

I changed Marin Day in to JBL Tropic, waiting for the results now.. Reduced light to 6 hours a day and stoped fertilising with feropol. If I turn off co2 it might help to kill algae ? water looks as green as it was before and is more than 2 weeks now, not changing at all. and one more question about o2, i have my airpump on all the time. is it good or I have to turn it off some time?

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27 Apr 2011 19:51 #15 by Katherine (Katarzyna Glebocka)
Dejwys,
What I would do would be:
1. EasyLife Carbo at the maximum dose on a daily basis - 4 ml a day for 6 days. Don't overdose as it can poison and kill your fish. If situation improves during this time you can go down to 2 ml a day. EasyCarbo limits algae development - would be easier to control it.
2. I would keep O2 (air pump) for the majority of day as your plants are not able to produce it for themselves but it will also supply O2 for algae.
3. I was once advised to cover my tank and keep it in the dark for a couple of days but it didn't help me much. Moreover it is not good for plants that I think are not in the best condition now.
4. Do you use any bacteria (nitrification)? - I would try to add them to help mature your filter.
5. With CO2 - I have no idea, I have never had such algae problem since I started to use CO2.
6. Water changes - 20 % twice a week.

I think that you suffer typical syndrom of unmatured tank but it last too long in my opinion.
I would like somebody more experienced to confirm that my path is proper or correct me in order not to make any bigger harm in your lovely tank.

Kath

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27 Apr 2011 21:09 #16 by Dejwys (Deividas K.)
Katherine,

I think that I know whats wrong now. Tank was ok unitil I put in this plant Fittonia Verschaffeltii. I got it from MaxiZoo in Finglas.Guy from the shop sayd that it is aquarium plant so I got it becouse its red colour, alaways wanted some colourfull plant in the tank, so it turned out that this plant is for terariums and even house, or outdoors plant :D this plant in water can live about 4-6 weeks, its not growing just slowly dying and pollutes the water. This plant is in the pot in my kitchen now ;] thanks for great help Katherine ! I'll keep updating, hope it going to go away...

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27 Apr 2011 21:11 #17 by joey (joe watson)
Replied by joey (joe watson) on topic Re: Algae Bloom
if you are injecting co2 then do not use an airpump you will lose all co2. best to have sleight surface movement for oxygenation - i have little more than flat surface and tank is well stocked but no ill effects on the fish and very little algae

also you do need the tank to mature and no doubt you will get brown diatoms all over the place once the green water goes, then black algae, then green spot algea... its a constant battle!

Location: Portlaoise, Midlands

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27 Apr 2011 21:58 #18 by Katherine (Katarzyna Glebocka)

Guy from the shop sayd that it is aquarium plant


I know this pain. I bought beautiful plant - Hemiographis exotica - that was recommended as aquatic plant. It started to rot in the tank and it turned out it was a palludarium plant!! I hope that all your problems ware caused by the plant.

Dejwys, do you keep CO2 24/24 hours or you switch it off for the night? My CO2 system starts to work 2 hours before the lighting turns on and switches of 1 hour before lighting switches off. I know that it is not recommended to use air pumps in healthy planted tank but in this particular situation I probably would support plants with it for a couple of hours at night for a short period of time.

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28 Apr 2011 16:17 #19 by Dejwys (Deividas K.)
ahh... I have learned now not to buy any plants until you know its good, and it realy aquarium plant ;]]

I have my co2 1 hour before lights go on and switches of 1 hour before lights go off. do you think I should do 2 hours before lighs go on ? I will plug in my air pump in to a timer for 2 hours at night until I fix my problem with water.

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28 Apr 2011 16:33 #20 by Katherine (Katarzyna Glebocka)

do you think I should do 2 hours before lighs go on ? I will plug in my air pump in to a timer for 2 hours at night until I fix my problem with water.


My colleagues who are better at planted tanks and who are my teachers and support team put CO2 this way. They even keep lighting up to 12 hours a day as I do. I was told turning on CO2 2 hours before ligh is recommanded.
My daily CO2 and lighting routine is as follows:
7 - 8 am - one tube on for feeding fish and adding ferlitisers (and to have nice "good morning') with no CO2
10 am to 10 pm - CO2 is on
12 noon - 11 pm - 3 tubes are on.

How many bubles per second is your CO2 supplied?

When you sort out your water problems then stop using your air pump. Plants should be able to produce sufficient quantity of oxygen.

But all the time pay attention if the behavoiur patter of you fish is not changing. It may indicate oversupplying CO2.

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28 Apr 2011 17:39 #21 by Dejwys (Deividas K.)
I will try to do the same what you are doing after I sort my green water problem.

my co2 is 1 bubble / 2 seconds. I have a drop checker but it stays at dark green colour. Maybe its becouse I left my air pump 24/24, so i means I was loosing co2. Just need wait now I supose. How you checking your co2 level? whats your PH ?

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28 Apr 2011 18:30 #22 by Katherine (Katarzyna Glebocka)
My pH is 6.8 and I have more than 4 bubles per second. I have just increased it as I would like to give additional kick to stimulate them for growth. I have only buble counter so I check CO2 level by pH testing and fish and plant observation.

If your pH is obove 7.0 you could increase CO2 amount as 1 buble per 2 seconds seems too less for me. I would start from 1/2 bubles per second.

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28 Apr 2011 20:44 #23 by paddyc1 (Paddy Corrigan)

firstly, the typical signs of blooming water - uv lamp would be the best solution, without this a bypass it, but it will take longer.:unsure:
secondly, you have too low light for your plants - the basic rule: a minimum of 0.5W of light per 1 liter of water, especially when using co2.
Cheers, a happy easter to all
chris


Draco I have 2x28w T5s with reflectors in my 190l tank and they are more than sufficient for it.
I have very healthy plant growth (as Dejwys can testify)

Dejwys, like you say I would limit the air pump to a few hrs at night when the CO2 goes off.
While the "house plant" probably hasn't helped your cause, the bloom is most likely due to the fact that it's a new set up.
Hope it settles soon, you did a great job scaping it.

Paddy

Tallaght, Dublin 24

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29 Apr 2011 11:07 #24 by bart (Bart Korfanty)
Did you do anything with filter or bottom substrate by any chance?
ie change sponges/washed them extensively/disturbed or change/add substrate

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29 Apr 2011 18:54 #25 by Dejwys (Deividas K.)
bart

I did.I removed sagitaria pusila from the front, but it was splitted in to 6-7 peaces.And I maintain the filter, washed only smal spunges they was very dirty, never clean them sinc I got filter after that I used bacteria. I have JBL crystal profi e700, inside I have ceramic rings at the bottom level, next is 2 sponges where u cant take out circle peases from the midle and there is micromec balls, and third level is two sponges.Do you think its OK? Do I have to use ceramic rings and JBL micromec balls or be better to remove ceramic rings and place full bottom level with micromec and other 2 levels with sponges?

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29 Apr 2011 21:43 #26 by joey (joe watson)
Replied by joey (joe watson) on topic Re: Algae Bloom
ceramic is great media as it diesn't block and has a good surface area so leave it in. i only use sponges to trap some of the particles the rest is ceramic and bioballs. just squeeze the sponge gently in old tank water (what you take out the tank during water changes) to unblock them and only do this once a month (and if you have 2 sponges then alternate this every 2 weeks or month depending how blocked up they get)

Location: Portlaoise, Midlands

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01 May 2011 12:03 #27 by joey (joe watson)
Replied by joey (joe watson) on topic Re: Algae Bloom
crinium, vallis, crypts, anubia, java fern, some echinodoras, some hygrophyllia should all have little trouble at all, and do quite well with fertile substrate (if you dont have soil use fertiliser pellets and jbl 7 balls)

if you are using co2 they should do very well. the crypts often seem to melt away to nothing when introduced to a tank but stick with them they can burst back to life. i have one that went back to 4 leaves and now is the size of a good melon

as for carpeting plants, i found pogostemon helferi does well for me its quite interesting but needs med-high light (you should be fine with it i've only 108w above a 400l tank) and fertile substrate. it was the only thing that the clown loaches didn't uproot :angry:

Location: Portlaoise, Midlands

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