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Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)

Hi,

John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.

I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.

With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.

I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.

If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.

I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.

I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.

Thank you
Darragh Sherwin

What fish? **Water Readings Added**

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03 Nov 2008 21:37 #31 by dolf_peeters (Dolf Peeters)
thanks for the advise .... I presumme I'm not due a clean of the filter of the tanks just yet, its only been 3 days.

I luuuuuuv looking at the tank! so timer it on from 16:00 till 23:00 B)

I've printed off some light reading re the cycle for some bedtime reading.

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03 Nov 2008 21:41 #32 by Fishowner (Gavin fishowner)
no need for a filter clean at this stage at all. Not for another while. even a month perhaps more...what type filter have you got. The filter holds beneficial bacteria,you need them to grow right now.

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03 Nov 2008 21:50 #33 by dolf_peeters (Dolf Peeters)
not sure what filter it is, it consists ok 5seperate spounges

I'll have alook at the box ....... 'Juwel Filter System Compact H'

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03 Nov 2008 23:05 #34 by Valerie (Valerie)
Replied by Valerie (Valerie) on topic Re:what fish?
It's the standard Rio 180 internal filter.
There are 5 sponges in it : 1 core sponge (blue), 2 finer sponges (blue), 1 nitrate removing sponge (green), 1 carbon sponge (black) as well as a white filter pad. The Juwel litterature recommends you change them quite often. In actual fact, you don't need to. When the flow is reduced or upon maintenance, you just rinse them in 'old' tank water. I might change the white pad every 2 or 3 months.
The carbon sponge is not really required either. You probably can remove it if you wish. It is said that they absorb nasties until a certain stage and then leech them back into the water. Carbon is really required if you want to remove medicine or tannin coloration from bog wood for example.
In any case, you don't need to clean your filter just now ! ;-)

Valerie

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04 Nov 2008 00:56 #35 by LimerickBandit (Donal Doran)
The first thing i did with the Rio filter was cut it out of the tank, im sure they work but i hate the look of them :dry:

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04 Nov 2008 07:00 #36 by dolf_peeters (Dolf Peeters)
I've put a lovely little 'forrest' infront of it :laugh:

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04 Nov 2008 08:21 #37 by tm2204 (Thomas Maguire)
Hi Dolf,

The Juwel nitrate removal sponge explains the difference between your tanks nitrate level of 10 and your tapwater nitrate level of 20 (which is high for tapwater!).

Nitrate is the end-product of the nitrogen cycle and over time causes stress in fish if allowed to build up; hence water changes. Your tapwater nitrate level is high at 20(mine is less than 5) but the Juwel filter sponge must be doing it's job if it's already down to 10.

:)

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04 Nov 2008 11:24 #38 by dolf_peeters (Dolf Peeters)
we are on a well and are considering getting our tap water tested anyway so might end up with a filtration system on the water pre it entering the house.

no where near doing my first waterchange, but how do people go about them? obviously the chemical and temp levels are differetnt between the tap and tank, do people remove 20% and replace with water directly from the tap or does 'stuff' need to be done to the tap water first(regulating temp, ...)

thanks

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04 Nov 2008 11:33 #39 by tm2204 (Thomas Maguire)
Get a product that removes chlorine, metals & breaks the chloramine bond. I use API tapwater conditioner.

You must match the temperature of the water being added; I use a kettle of hot water & mix with cold water (treated as above) in a 2 gallon bucket until temp is almost the same.

Use a piece of hosepipe (dedicated) to siphon the water both in & out of the tank.
:)

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04 Nov 2008 11:55 - 04 Nov 2008 11:57 #40 by Fishowner (Gavin fishowner)
Buy a dish and use it purely for the adding of the new water,dont use your stanard wash dish as it will have contained chemicals from doing the dishes! Also dont put the thermometer in until the cold water has also been added as it will "Pop" the thermometer. I usually fill the new dish up first with hot water and then add cold water. Have a feel of the water to see if its luke warm and pop the thermometer in and add the correct amount of dechorline/ water conditioner. Go about your siphoning and removing 20% of the water in the tank. Doesnt matter what dish you use for this as its going in the sink anyhow! (But Id dedicate a bucket to it if you can as you can pick up some nasties from tank water also and dont want to have the same dish you are washing wear in either).
When you 20% change is done (make sure you heater doesnt overheat or run dry & turn off the filter if you need to before the change), then you go and check your new water and make sure it matches the temperature within a degree or so of the tank water and just pour it in slowly. Change done,record it on you diary that I recommended you to use!! Dont test the water until the next day if you had water issues as the reading can take a few hours to read correctly :)
Simple but a pain in the as* when its every week,although for some strange reason I enjoy weekly water changes! In fact I must do them tonight!

Gavin
Last edit: 04 Nov 2008 11:57 by Fishowner (Gavin fishowner).

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04 Nov 2008 12:43 - 04 Nov 2008 12:44 #41 by tm2204 (Thomas Maguire)
I invested in a digital thermometer, you just point it at the water and press a button for a reading accurate to 0.1 of a degree.

I also quite enjoy doing water changes; makes me scrutinize the tank and I often see the fish physically enjoy the new water being added.

It's far easier to do a 15-20% water change weekly/bi-weekly than leaving it and trying to clean up after an algae outbreak. Never mind the stress to the fish the nitrate causes!
:)
Last edit: 04 Nov 2008 12:44 by tm2204 (Thomas Maguire).

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04 Nov 2008 18:43 #42 by dolf_peeters (Dolf Peeters)
Fishowner wrote:

Change done,record it on you diary that I recommended you to use!!
Gavin

done, put yesterdays readings in my notebook(**couch, cough, ...thank god for excel ... cough, cough**)

Fishowner wrote:

Buy a dish and use it purely for the adding of the new water,dont use your stanard wash dish as it will have contained chemicals from doing the dishes!
Gavin

got a dedicated bucket on way home from lfs first day. but might get a larger container for settle water for changes

tm2204 wrote:

Get a product that removes chlorine, metals & breaks the chloramine bond. I use API tapwater conditioner

is there any product that can drop the nitrate levels in my tap water prior to adding it to my tank?

tm2204 wrote:

I invested in a digital thermometer, you just point it at the water and press a button for a reading accurate to 0.1 of a degree.

just got a glass thermometer for now, the sticker one sticks to outside of tank are out, mine shows 26-28C, the glas one is just below 25C

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04 Nov 2008 22:28 #43 by tm2204 (Thomas Maguire)
I'm sure there are ways of treating the water to remove/lower Nitrate levels but as my tap water level is low I've never had to bother so I've never investigated it...
:)

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04 Nov 2008 23:23 #44 by Fishowner (Gavin fishowner)
The sticker temperature,discard it. Use the temperature from the thermometer inside the tank in the water. As for the digital thermometer,I picked up one on ebay today for about €5 incl P&P.
Gavin

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04 Nov 2008 23:24 #45 by dolf_peeters (Dolf Peeters)
damn, they are €22 in LFS

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04 Nov 2008 23:33 #46 by LimerickBandit (Donal Doran)
The glass thermometer for 3 or 4 euro is all you need ;)

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04 Nov 2008 23:36 #47 by Fishowner (Gavin fishowner)
Very true,and dont pay €4, they are only about 1.99 in most places! Actually do pay €4, you'll need two of them!
Gavin

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05 Nov 2008 18:13 #48 by dolf_peeters (Dolf Peeters)
I saw a product in the LFS today, called Nutrafin NitrateMinus, has anybody used this?

can this be used to bring down the level of nitrate in my tapwater prior to adding it to the tank?

Just thinking ahead, as someone did say my nitrate in tap was rather high

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05 Nov 2008 19:13 #49 by Fishowner (Gavin fishowner)
The nitrate wont kill the fish Dolf,its the nitrite that Id be more concerned about. They is nearly always an element of nitrate in peoples tanks to an extend.When you know what fish you are getting Id take it from there, but I havent tried that product myself,maybe some of th other fishkeepers here would have some experience of it.
Gavin

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05 Nov 2008 20:04 #50 by dolf_peeters (Dolf Peeters)
fresh water readings today(4 days since setting up and adding the addetives):

ammonia: 0
nitrite: 0.1
nitrate: 20
Ph: 8

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