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Retirement and forum shutdown (17 Jan 2022)

Hi,

John Howell who has managed the forum for years is getting on and wishes to retire from the role of managing it.
Over the years, he has managed the forum through good days and bad days and he has always been fair.
He has managed to bring his passion for fish keeping to the forum and keep it going for so long.

I wish to thank John for his hard work in keeping the forum going.

With John wishing to "retire" from the role of managing the forum and the forum receiving very little traffic, I think we must agree that forum has come to a natural conclusion and it's time to put it to rest.

I am proposing that the forum be made read-only from March 2022 onwards and that no new users or content be created. The website is still registered for several more years, so the content will still be accessible but no new topics or replies will be allowed.

If there is interest from the ITFS or other fish keeping clubs, we may redirect traffic to them or to a Facebook group but will not actively manage it.

I'd like to thank everyone over the years who helped with forum, posted a reply, started a new topic, ask a question and helped a newbie in fish keeping. And thank you to the sponsors who helped us along the away. Hopefully it made the hobby stronger.

I'd especially like to thank John Howell and Valerie Rousseau for all of their contributions, without them the forum would have never been has successful.

Thank you
Darragh Sherwin

Best Way to Set up a Planted Tank (Photos Added)

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19 Oct 2011 23:30 - 19 Oct 2011 23:32 #31 by AquaticGardenDan (Daniel Madziag)
About CO2 run it only when light is on when you gona runing it when the light is of the chemical cicle is diferent during the day and night and is balansed when CO2 is run at day only.
When You gona run Your CO2 24/7 You will kill your fish and drasticly drop PH in aquarium,


If yor solenoid is switching off when the power is cut off you can plug it on the same timer with light, if it switch off when the power is on, You'll need separate timer.
Last edit: 19 Oct 2011 23:32 by AquaticGardenDan (Daniel Madziag).

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19 Oct 2011 23:33 #32 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
so have the CO2 on for the same 10 to 12 hours i have the lights on??

sean

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19 Oct 2011 23:39 - 19 Oct 2011 23:39 #33 by AquaticGardenDan (Daniel Madziag)
Yes,


And about the Oliver Knot substrate,

Don't wash it before use,

and You cannot have in your tank fish who are like hiding in the ground or digging in the substrate,
10l should be inuf for 65l tank, so don't know will you have inuf for 180l


Best of luck with Your tank !!
Last edit: 19 Oct 2011 23:39 by AquaticGardenDan (Daniel Madziag).

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19 Oct 2011 23:53 #34 by Valerie (Valerie)
Replied by Valerie (Valerie) on topic Re: Best Way to Set up a Planted Tank

You planning to be a Sponsor?

Kev.


Indeed, Aquatic Garden Shop is our new sponsor on this forum. I will set up a new section for Daniel tomorrow and he will be able to give you more info in his own section :)

Valerie

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20 Oct 2011 09:36 #35 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
chris i was readin up and that is wat i came across this morning fair play bang on

can anyone else help me as off if the 2x 10L bags will be enough for the tank as for 50 euro a bag i dont really want to go and have to get another bag is there anything else i could do

as get something else altogether(if that is a good thing or not)?

or get something that would be ok to mix with the oliver knott?

thanks

sean

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20 Oct 2011 12:54 #36 by manius112 (Mariusz Kaminski)
Why woud ya have lights on for 10-12h a day??
When ya set up new tank dont go over 6-6,5h a day and week later inc up to 7-7,5h and dont go over 9h.
Always have CO2 on and off same time as light.

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20 Oct 2011 20:31 #37 by Gavin (Gavin)
agreed.no need to have the lights on that long.tempting fate with algae regardless of feeding,water changes etc.
btw. MANIUS call me! :P

dont make me come over there.

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20 Oct 2011 20:51 #38 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
yeah that is just wat i was readin on the net ill do it as yas said and see how things work out

it is not the 260 i am planting it is a 180 rio are u sayin u would need 53L to fill a 260? sorry dont realy get you

also i am after orderin a glass diffuser for the co2 and im going to bring the reactor back as again i have being told the glass ones are better again i would like to here wat other ppl think and just wanna say thanks to all off the lads for the comment's as i am finding new stuff out every day keep tem coming im sure will keep the Qs coming lol

thanks

sean

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20 Oct 2011 21:03 #39 by PompeyBill (Killian Walshe)
Getting some great help from the lads Sean, hopefully will work out great for you. You should take step by step pics for us so we can see it from start to amazing finish (and will help the likes of me when I try to go planted!)

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20 Oct 2011 22:36 #40 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
i sure am they never get me down when i need help(always) :laugh:

as for the step by step think i will but on the other hand someone else could take them from when i move the tank so i could get a bit off help hahahahaha

thank again lads

also stock wise plant and fish would love to here wat yas think


sean

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21 Oct 2011 09:24 #41 by AquaticGardenDan (Daniel Madziag)
Exactly like Draco wrote 24literes of OK substrate for Rio 180 give 5cm on the front and 10cm on the rear. So you can put something in the back or do the beach in front.

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21 Oct 2011 17:42 #42 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
so ill have to get another bag as i only have 20L or should i just start with the 20L and see wat way it works out?

thanks lads and @aquaticgarenshop logo looks the job

sean

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21 Oct 2011 19:42 #43 by AquaticGardenDan (Daniel Madziag)

thanks lads and @aquaticgarenshop logo looks the job


Thank You

On Your place i will start with what You have, do 5cm on front and see what it be on the back. If You gona think that is not inuf get some sand and make beach on front or put that sand under the substrate on the back :)
Take Your time with that, there is definitely no rush.

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21 Oct 2011 21:46 #44 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
yeah the one thing i will not be doing in rushing anything i am after bulidin all the stuff up for the tanl over the last three months so have everything that way just gonna take my time and hope for the best and learn from my mistakes

sean

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21 Oct 2011 22:34 #45 by AquaticGardenDan (Daniel Madziag)
hope You get good lessons :)
Best of luck with it

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01 Nov 2011 00:00 #46 by omen (Conor)
Good luck with the new high tech set up!

You seem to have picked a nice substrate, with the hich tech route you need to start the tank with big water changes every other day for 2 weeks, and very heavy planting. Light wise, best to start on 6 hours a day on a timer with the co2 coming on 1 hr before lights on, and going off 1 hr before lights off. Timers make life much easier! Also, its very important to start a ferts regime immediately. After 2 weeks, do a further 2 weeks of 2x per week 50% water changes. If you want to start increasing your lighting period, up it by 1 hour every fortnight from here on. I wouldn't personally have it on for more than 9hrs per day. Oh, and as you're already going the diy way with your FE, make up your own ferts, and possibly look into getting a UP inline atomizer.

I use the "Tobi" ferts, the recipe is available online. And a trace mix. Dosing daily.

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08 Nov 2011 13:28 #47 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
thanks for that omen some great advice ill look into the ferts

as off now the tank is up and running lights startin on 5 ta 6 hours a day (on timer)
subsrate in and thanks has being running about a week and a half tuck filte and water from my other tank so everything is all good now all up ta temp and that.

i got a few cutting off some fast growing plant Brazilian Pennywort (hydrocotyle leucocephala) also i added some java moss to see how i get on with the added a few hardy fish last night about 5 or 6 i think

all wiren is tiedy up and stand is in place changed back ground on tank i ghanged it to black to blackin out the back off the tank

CO2 is not setup yet (will need helf with this soon) haha

i think for now i should see how i get on for a week or two should i start addin ferts now?

i added some easy life profito last night done as bottle said as pre L

am on the look out for more fast growing cuttiings and also will be lookin into gettin an order off a lot off plants very soon to get it much planted as i can.

then should i start the CO2?

some pics to follow later not the best but u get to see where i am

thanks sean

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09 Nov 2011 08:47 - 09 Nov 2011 08:48 #48 by omen (Conor)
Hey Sean, I'd get the co2 and fert dosing regime going asap. If you have no fish in the tank (if it is cycling) then this is a bonus, as you can really crank up the co2 to levels that the plants will love, but may kill livestock. The absolute must in my book is the very frequent big water changes. Try to do 50% water changes every other day for first 2 weeks. Every time you do a water change you add a lot of carbon into the tank which the plants love. I think if you are regimented and stick with regualr big water changes for 4 weeks, you can drop to the regular one 50% per week change after this. The main issue with new planted tanks, is the time it takes the plants to get established, if you use fast growers, ferts, co2 and big water changes, you can't go far wrong. :D
Last edit: 09 Nov 2011 08:48 by omen (Conor).

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09 Nov 2011 20:35 #49 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
yeah thanks mate i started with water changes and also i went ta setup the CO2 up tonight but just my luck i broke the bubble counter so ill have ta get a new one off them befor i sent it up :(

sean

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09 Nov 2011 20:44 #50 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
few pics not the best only on the phone but ta get de to see wat it is like now



Sean Crowe

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09 Nov 2011 21:16 #51 by m4r10 (m4r10)
What filter do you use? Is that a custom made spray bar?

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09 Nov 2011 22:14 #52 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
it a Fluval 205 External Filter with the Fluval spraybar

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09 Nov 2011 22:25 #53 by m4r10 (m4r10)
I use a Tetratec, but it's only half the length. I'd say you'll have no dead spots in the tank with that spraybar.

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09 Nov 2011 22:38 #54 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
when i got it, it came with the two lengths i was only going to use the one but then when i put the two together it looked much better and as u say get the water around the tank more it is the only one i ever got i tot all them came with the two lenghts??


sean

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11 Nov 2011 10:21 - 12 Nov 2011 10:37 #55 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
got co2 up and running last night thanks very much to kev (yes still alive :L:L)

looks great and workin fine and also thanks to gerr for pickin up the bubble count for me

have the co2 coming on at 2 in the day and going off at 8

and have the lights coming on at three and going off at 9 will incresse bit by bit over the next few weeks till i get to 9 hours (will take pics soon)

does it matter if the diffuser is near (not right beside but close enough) to the heater?

going to do as much water changes i can over the next few weeks prob about 30 ta 40% every 3 or 4 days? yes or not will i keep it to one once a week?

as for ferts wat way should i go about them now will i be ok with just added easylife profito once a week and it says on bottle for do i need other ferts to be added daily if so wat should i be lookin at?

also really in need for some more fast growing plants would be great if i could get a good few cuttings off pepole

last thing agter i addin the guppies to the tank two days later there is fry everywhere :L:L (again thanks for them kev)

sean

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Last edit: 12 Nov 2011 10:37 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe).

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12 Nov 2011 07:42 - 12 Nov 2011 07:44 #56 by omen (Conor)
If you have your co2 coming on at 2 in the day and going off at 8, then the lights should be set to on at 3pm and off at 9pm. You have a lovely tank there, but the planting is extremely minimal. Normally people will fire a shed load of plants into a new planted tank, with barely a bit of substrate left uncovered. The idea of this is that the plants will out compete any algae. You may be able to hold algae off if you do major and very regular water changes, but my advise to you at this point is to get lots and lots of fast growing plants in the meantime, and you can gradually cahgne them out if you want a change later.

Diffuser near heater will not be a prob or make a difference. Some actually diffuse into the input for external filter but this can be noisy, and some claim it shortens the lifespan of filter components.

Water changes, every other day at least 40%, ideally 50%. For 2 weeks, then drop to twice a week for 2 weeks @50%, then once a week thereafter. As you've planted so lightly, if algae is going to hit, it'll hit hard as there is not the plant matter to out compete it.

I have a load of E. Tennelus I'll be selling soon, or if you're in Belfast anytime, I can give you some cuttings for nought.

Ferts, I used to use EI dry salts method:
www.theplantedtank.co.uk/
Store bought ferts will cost you a lot to keep up with. Best solution is to buy in your own.
I have seen excellent results with the Tobi ferts on ukaps website. In fact you should sign up and have a nosy about the forum, it really is the best planted tank website, very knowledgeable members, beautiful journals and aquascapes, some truly inspirational stuff on there.
Last edit: 12 Nov 2011 07:44 by omen (Conor).

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12 Nov 2011 10:05 - 12 Nov 2011 10:09 #57 by Katherine (Katarzyna Glebocka)
I had a glance on the topic and if you don't mind I will add my 3 cents to the discussion.
I've been running planted tank for a while. I made several mistakes that thought me a lot.
But my remerks are following:
1. Each tank is different and even the best advises can go wrong in your tank. So, experiments and observation is the key to success.
2. Yes, lighting is very improtant bur 1 Watt per liter is just an ideal proportion that could make you bankroupt. In my Vision260 I use T8 bulbs 3 x 38 Watt = 114 Watt. So, less then 0.5 Wat per liter and I use CO2 with it. I don't think it is useless or unnecessary. In my hi-tech tank it was necessary. I was busy a couple of weeks ago and didn't notice I run out of CO2 and all my CO2 demanding plants disapeared... (apomogeton madagascariensis, apomogeton crispus)... :-(( So, I think that even in a 'low lighted' tank, CO2 is needed.
3. I turn CO2 2 hours before light goes on and switch it off an hour before light goes off. Moreover I do not turn all my bulbs at the same time. I have them on 2 timers 1 + 2 bulbs. So, first is a single tube turned on and after an hour the remaining 2 bulb. I switch them off in oposite order.
4. I use also EasyCarbo but in a smaller amount than suggested by the producer. EasyCarbo is a liquid carbo and CO2 is a carbon dixide and they both serve different purposes but one cannot replace another.
5. At the begining I would suggest you going into branded fertilisers (EasyLife or any other suggested in this toppic) but do not throw empty bottles because you will use them for EI later on. I am nearly convinced that you will go into salts when you learn more about planted tanks and your in particular. Savings on money are unbelivable and the pleasure of mixing your own fertilisers.
6. Regarding substrates. I used ordinary gravel at the beginnig. It wasn't bad but my plants needed more fertilised balls and more liquid fertilisers. So, I decided to change it for substrate and my choice was New ADA Amazonia (probably I was the first on the forum who bought it). I decided to make use of an old Polish advice: 'We are too poor to spend money on rubbish things!" So I decided to spend money once for a top product and to save my time, nerves and money too. :) Oliver Knott's substrate is in my opinion on a second place after ADA. So, it is also a good decision.
7. I haven't seen anybody mentionig the importance of having and making water tests in a newly established tant. I think you should have test to check if the nitrogen circle works properly. The basic tests you should have are: NO2, NO3, PO4, pH (I would recommend range 4 - 7 pH or something simmilar from JBL), KH, GH, NH3/NH3 and Fe. Test should be taken before water change. I used Sera, Dupla, Zoolek, API and JBL test. I prefer JBL our of that all because you can check even brackish water and moreover you can buy refills at cheaper price that the basic set. Obvoiusly, I wouldn't spend a penny on Zoolek and API water test anymore. But Zoolek's medicines are good and cheap.

These are my small point based on my experience. I know that some will agree with them and some won't.

Vision260, planted tank is a challenge and it is an addictive hobby. :) Good luck and have a good time!!
Last edit: 12 Nov 2011 10:09 by Katherine (Katarzyna Glebocka).

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12 Nov 2011 11:00 #58 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
i am doing as much water changes as i can at the mo i know as for plants i dont have enough i am planning on headin out on sunday to get a load and also i know people dont like gettin plants off the net but im going to try it and order some opn monday sure if they are ok they will go in if not they will go in the bin

i am after puttin a Koralia 900 L/hour in the line off the CO2 and is on the same timer as the CO2 so that when they come on the Koralia is blowin all the CO2 around the tank so the CO2 gets into the water better wat do you think about doing this ?

omen sorry that is wat i meant i have it comeing on an hour befor lights and going off an hour befor them


as for the E. Tennelus it is something that i would be be lookin for so when u are sellin let me know i wouldnt be in belfast at all really think ill be headin up one day soon for shoppin and to get stuff in befor the xmas but not sure where and could be miles away from u thanks anyway

ill have a look and sign up to the ukaps website later tonight when i get home as im in work at the mo also wat do u mean about Best solution is to buy in your own ferts?

katherine thanks very much i know wat u mean i am just going to see wat works for me at the mo and see how things go on i can only learn from wat i do wrong and hopefully i dont do to much wrong

as u said about the lightin i am just going to see how i get on with the 2 x 45w for the mo and if i need more i can always add it later

i said to me self taht if i was going to start a planted tank i was going to use CO2 from the start as i didnt wanna just start off without it and then find later that i needed it

how come u turn the CO2 on two hours befor do u find it any different the haven it come on one hour befor?

it will be a while befor i get into EI as i dont know much abut it and when i try read uo about it i havent a clue wat i am readin :L

thanks very much for both off yours replys

sean

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12 Nov 2011 17:20 #59 by Katherine (Katarzyna Glebocka)

how come u turn the CO2 on two hours befor do u find it any different the haven it come on one hour befor?


It was an advise from my colleagues from Polish forums who have been having planted tanks for years. It seems logical to me. By adding CO2 before light you are preparing environment for plants when they 'wake up' after night and it works like a kick for them. My plants were generally starting bubling (producing oxygen) within 3 - 4 hours after switching light on. CO2 does not affect my fish. Turning light off an hour before light lets plants consume remaining CO2 that was in water and then after light is switched off plants start to produce their own CO2 in the safe amount for the rest of tank residents.

I add 3 bubbles of CO2 per second.

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12 Nov 2011 17:25 #60 by BlueRam (Sean Crowe)
i know wat u mean it just everywhere i read or way ppl ahve said to me is one hour befor not two that way i asked thanks and yeah i think mine is the same 3 bubbles per sec

sean

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